: Paul, I may try ripping a few strips with the 5° deg. edge to see how
: that works . . . do little experimenting. Is this a technique you use,
: too?

Actually, no. But I'm not in the situation you are in. I don't have a fuzzy edge on my strips to start with. I'd plane the boards smooth before ripping strips. I get too many splinters from rough sawn wood, and hate 'em. So, I don't need to go back and rip off the fuzz.

If I WAS going to run my strips through a saw or router or shaper to get a clean edge, I would do a few with a slight bevel on one edge. For you, running 50 strips straight, then cranking the blade a bit for 25 more is not a major time consuming change in the setup. Turn the crank on the blade angle, nudge the fence a smidge, and you probably can leave any feather boards as they are.
Oh, remember to set your saw back to 0 before you make any other cuts.

25 strips times 5 degrees is 125 degrees, or about 1/3 rd of a circle. Your hull is roughly 1/2 to 2/3 of a circle, so using those strips with the prebeveled edge, and hand beveling the other edge as needed, will get you through the areas which have more extreme curves. In flatter areas you might not need to do any beveling at all. It's not perfect, but it should help a little bit in speeding up assembly.

But I find that the cedar is so soft and easily worked that it takes little time to walk along the edge of a strip with a hand plane and take off any excess. If you can sharpen a cedar pencil in a pencil sharpener you can hand plane the edge of a cedar strip. No set up time, no long flimsy strips going through a table saw.

Hope this helps

PGJ