Boat Building Forum

Find advice on all aspects of building your own kayak, canoe or any lightweight boats

We agree to disagree.
By:Rob Macks / Laughing Loon
Date: 10/14/2007, 10:05 pm
In Response To: I have to disagree. (Pedro Almeida)

When I respond to a question on this BB my answers are not just to that specific
person and not aimed at everyone. I'm responding to the novice or aspiring builders.

What I am saying is that if you as a novice want to take advantage my years of experience,
I can save you a lot of grief.

I know every builder of two or more boats here, has their way of doing it, that they are happy with.

I'm not suggesting that you change the way you work if you are happy with it.

Yes, you can do B&C with one router. But, you cannot be sure your set-up is correct
until you mill both profiles and put them together. So for the novice woodworker, having to also
learn the skills, through trial and error, of setting up a router, can be a big pitfall. I can imagine
someone running all their strips through one profile, then running the other profile, only to find out
their set-up was off. What do you do?

You use the strips even though the B&C is now creating more problems. Been there, done that.

I advocate and use 3/16" thick strips which are trickier to mill B&C on, since you
must use 1/4" cutters.

: "Setting up the C&B cutters is VERY time consuming..."

: You may be right here, but only if you're using a two-router setup. With one
: router, the setup is quite straightforward.

Nothing is straightforward to a novice.

: More advantages to using B&C: The strip edges stay alinged between station.

B&C is not fool proof. It is not automatically self aligning. I hear a lot of complaints about
strips out of alignment with B&C. And with B&C the joint is hidden. You can't
be sure ALL your joints are tight. This is the reason I returned to hand beveling
my strips. I found thicker glue joints than I wanted, after sanding my B&C strips.

I'm sure some designs work better with B&C and may not be hard to strip.

I've built a great many different boats and find the only sure way I can tell
my joints are tight is by hand beveling.

I've built many boats with both methods. I think hand beveling takes about the same
amount of time as milling B&C.

For a novice, hand beveling will be faster. Many strips on a boat will need little or no beveling.

And you will have the peace of mind to not wonder if you screwed
up all your strips with a less than perfect set-up on your first try.

Rob

Messages In This Thread

Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
Dave Stoup -- 10/12/2007, 11:51 am
Re: Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
Ken F -- 10/15/2007, 8:29 am
Re: Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
Bill Hamm -- 10/16/2007, 5:12 am
Thanks!!
Dave Stoup -- 10/13/2007, 1:57 pm
Re: Thanks!!
Paul G. Jacobson -- 10/13/2007, 8:12 pm
Re: Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
greg fojtik -- 10/13/2007, 8:37 am
Don't do anyting - your wood is OK
Jay Babina -- 10/12/2007, 3:25 pm
Re: Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
Pedro Almeida -- 10/12/2007, 2:28 pm
Re: Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
Mike Braun -- 10/12/2007, 9:18 pm
Re: Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
Paul G. Jacobson -- 10/12/2007, 12:51 pm
Re: Strip: Rolling bevel on rough strips
Rob Macks / Laughing Loon -- 10/13/2007, 12:53 pm
I have to disagree.
Pedro Almeida -- 10/14/2007, 1:37 pm
Half the story
Jay Babina -- 10/15/2007, 8:55 am
Re: Half the story
Pedro Almeida -- 10/15/2007, 11:54 pm
And now you know --the rest of the story
Paul G. Jacobson -- 10/18/2007, 1:26 am
We agree to disagree.
Rob Macks / Laughing Loon -- 10/14/2007, 10:05 pm
Re: We agree to disagree.
Pedro Almeida -- 10/15/2007, 11:18 pm
Re: I have to disagree.
Dan Caouette (CSFW) -- 10/14/2007, 3:21 pm
Re: I have to disagree.
Bryan Hansel -- 10/14/2007, 7:28 pm