: I'm still collecting information before I attempt to build a kayak and have
: many questions. I have been reading the pro's and cons of s glass , carbon
: , kevlar and a mix of all and i'm trying to work out what would be best
: where. So far I thinking the best for strength to weight would be S glass
: on the outside with a carbon kevlar inside?? I know S is not as clear but
: stronger for the same weight. So a few questions for a strip baidarka that
: will see open ocean with surf landings
: 1. What would be the ultimate layup for strength to weight?
: 2.Vacuum bagging inside and out will save how much weight?
: 3.slanting the bulkheads to allow for some flex??( I was thinking to line the
: whole inside in 1 piece first ,then use carbon kevlar tape for the inside
: seams and fitting of the bulkheads.
: 4. Will cutting wood out of the bulkhead just leaving an "X" of
: wood in the middle and laying 1 layer of kevlar over the whole thing make
: it lighter than wood alone? Yes it will , sorry just answered my own
: question. Has any one done this ?
: 5.Zurcon??? A very well respected kayak maker here in Australia is offering
: this as a strip (I assume a rubbing strip) Has any one heard of this? I
: was thinking of just using Leading edge tape as I have in the past as a
: rubbly strip and still will use it around tow cleats and where the paddle
: hit the deck near my feet etc.
: 6. best coaming style for USE not just looks. I love the idea of a full
: recessed coaming like in the discussion a little further down but I think
: it would be too slow to use when your launching through surf. What the
: general thought on that?
: 7. I cant think of 7 ....brain overload!!
: Can I just say ahead of time ....you guys are fantastic with the amount of
: info and help you all provide on this forum and I just want to say Thanks!
: Tim

#4, well sorta, I'd leave the X out, there is no strength needed in kayak bulkheads, they just separate the hull into watertight sections. If you made a very skinny wood bulkhead and covered in light glass it can be made very light. The downside is it's awfully easy for it to be porous too.

#6, with a low back deck, for me, and to be light, you don't need a recessed coaming it does add weight. CF/glass coaming is very light and strong, also kinda a pain to make. Ideally made over a female mold so the surface is perfectly flat, there is a limit to how much sanding can be done on the outer surface even with a light sandable layer of glass on top.

Bill H.