John,

If you have not finshed your rudder yet, you may wish to build it to a NACA 0012 section, rather than an 0009. You'll find that it stalls less frequently, if at all, at the speeds that you will see in your kayak. Less stalling and detached flow means better over all control

Next, your leeboard is just fine the way it is. Angling it back to trim your balance is a good solution to a wide possible search for a solution as you get to know your boat. You will give away some upwind efficiency with an angled board, but will gain that back in adaptability, as well as a nice degree of weed shedding.

I think that you'll find that the jib is not really necessary and potentially a hindrance to visibility as well as boat trim (especially when doing offwind work) It's tough to achieve good forestay tension with a self supported mast and that is one of the real key elements to having any solid efficiency from a jib.

Since you have amas of some buoyancy now, you may find that flying a small traction kite in long downwind situations, is actually way more potent than the jib could ever hope to provide. If you get the right kite, it will pretty much fly itself. If sheeted to the hull at the aka tube location, you'll get a small amount of lift in the hull, as well as tug through the water. This will reduce wetted surface area and allow the kayak to go a bit faster.

If you fly a kite in medium and up winds, the boat will probably perform better with the mainsail dropped (or at least sheeted in) as the apparent wind will swing around to create the same effect as sailing upwind.

You have some real fun times ahead of you, John.

Any time you'd like to make a trip out west to go on a longer kayak sailing adventure, let me know. I'd look forward to your company.