: After reading all these, I think my problem is that it is not fully cured...
: good thing I've been wearing a respirator anyways. I did all the
: fiberglassing in a greenhouse attached to my house. It has no heat. I get
: it up to around 65 when I need to with a large heater, but if not it is at
: outside temp, which in MA right now is around freezing. I shut the heater
: off directly after finishing, so its only warm in there for a few hours.
: So, although it is tack free in about a day even at these temps, it will
: probably take months to fully cure if it will fully cure at all. I'm going
: to get a cabinet scraper and get rid of some drips and other imperfections
: now. Then I may have to wait a long time or even wait for some warm
: weather in the spring before I can think about sanding.

Hi Shaun,
No need to wait that long. Make a tent that fits over the kayak and use a low output heater in it. It traps the heat and woul help speed up the cure at your temperatures. If you use a thermostat at kayak level to control the heat, it's a good overnight heating method.

Alternatively, you can use a gang-board of incandescent lights, 40 watt lights work, beneath the kayak inside the tent. Again, a thermostat would be handy, switches off the lights if it gets too hot, swithches them on as it cools.
The number of bulbs varies depending on heat output and how much space they have to heat. It's less efficient than the first method.

With either method, it's a good idea to fit a trip-switch in the circit. One at the socket is best, as it kills everthing from there out. Kind of like unpluging it.

Hope this helps,
Mike Savage
South West Cork