: I would be extremely leery of leaving the inside unglassed.

I thought about that after I sent the post. I think it might be an ok method for quick prototyping. The boat wouldn't have last long.

For long-term construction I had this thought: If the forms are all even (say 8") it would be fairly easy to cut strips of glass cloth 8"+ wide and lay then in between the forms. The deck strips could be pre-coated like Paul said earlier. But... If you're going through all that work why not just build it "traditionally" since your time/weight savings just evaporated applying the interior glass/epoxy...

: My though is to create a lip for a box-style joint with another piece of wood
: laminated to the inside of the top strip on the hull so it over laps the
: joint as tape would. Then butter it up with dookie schmutz before
: assembly. The outer seam can then be glassed as normal. The inside sheer
: would reinforce the inside of the seam significantly.

I did something similar on the last few Black Pearls. The deck attaches to the hull at a pretty acute angle so there's no box-like-joint. It's more like a adding a quarter-round to an inside joint. Being such a long, thin boat there's no way to get epoxy/glass into the very ends through the cockpit/hatches. The sheer strip works fine. I DO glass over the sheer strip where I can reach it: the cockpit. I'm currently building a Njord (a touring relative of the BP) but with a rounded sheer. I was thinking about doing something similar to your box-joint idea. It's still a long, narrow boat. The ends are a LONG way from the cockpit. That's a few weeks out.

Dan