: Thanks, all, for the responses. I was actually just trying to stimulate a bit
: of discussion about this method of building; from what I've read, the
: flexibility of the traditional SOF/Inuit was considered an attribute, but
: perhaps not as useful in a recreational world (not sliding over ice etc.,
: - usually - there are exceptions here), and I would suspect that, for most
: here, a bit more rigid frame would actually be a plus, though I'm not the
: expert here - thus the stimulation for discussion.

Before I built my canoe I had two inflatable boats. (One of them is still in working condition, and I bought a third--an inflatable kayak--a few years ago) They were not as streamlined as a canoe, and they were a lot more flexible. You really noticed the flexibility when you stood up and the floor sagged 4 to 5 inches.

Comparing paddling effort in a very flexible boat to a stiffer one: you can feel it most in each strong stroke. Weak strokes which just keep you moving are comparable, but when you dig in to accelerate, a lot of your effort is absorbed at first by the boat. It kinda feels like the boat is compressing a bit, and then it bounces back and you take off. A second later you dig in for your next powerful stroke, and get the same weird, tiny hesitation. Eventually you get used to this, but the first few times it is a bit unsettling. Some of it was from the blunt shape of the boat, I'm sure.

I haven't noticed that effect in boats with wood frames and skins. Perhaps people who are more atuned to their boats may be more sensitive to this than I ma, or perhaps it is just not happening. Either way, it doesn't bother me like paddling an inflatable.

: What I like about your
: methods, among many things, is the apparent increased ease of building.
: Steaming ribs looks a bit tougher than cutting plywood stations out.

You are being too mild in your praise of Tom. He basically brought us the great technique of working with HDPE and laluminum tubing: A tight fitting hole drilled in the plastic, when opened into a "C" shape, serves as a snap fitting for the aluminum tubing. It's simple and brilliant. (Of course you never heard that from me. If he knew I admired his designs it might go to his head.)

Wood framed versions of the designs he made for plastic and aluminum frames simply substitute materials.

As for the differences in difficulty between steamed ribs and cut frames. Remember that the ribs, which you consider more difficult, were produced with simpler tools over many more years than frames. You can make a boat which has ribs using litle more than a oddly shaped knife--but adding a drawknife and a few other tools make the process easier. In fact John McPhee has written a book about one man (Henri Vaillancourt )who does. Check Amazon.com, or your local library for "The Survival of the Bark Canoe" It is a good read.

Ribs don't need to be steamed. If you can get freshly cut wood you can split it and bend it fairly easily while it is still green. Once it dries it holds the shape. The thin, split wood can harden in a few days. George Putz has a picture in his book of a man softening wood for ribs for his kayak by chewing on them. You can also use dry heat to soften the wood for bending. This was used for straightening material for arrows for centuries. When the wood got a little hotter it ended up harder, too. You don't need to work around a campfire anymore, you can get an inexpensive heat gun.

But if you want to steam things, it is not too difficult to jerry rig something if you have a few of the basic materials available: a kettle for boiling water, fire or heat source, a box to hold the steam and some connection between that box and boiler. Once the water is boiling and the box starts filling with steam it is just a matter of time until the wood softens. Then bend it like a pretzel if you wish. Just do it quickly for the wood loses its flexibility as it cools off. And thin wood cools fast.

Stock for ribs can be split from a "bolt", a short section of a log, much as shingles and shakes can be split. If someone near you is removing a tree, just ask for a section which is 3 to 4 feet long. A lot of time they are happy to have someone take the stuff as it means less work for them in loading their truck and removing it to a landfill. Split it in quarters, then split rib stock from those.

The original split piece will follow the lines of the grain, and have irregular edges--but isplitting generates no sawdust, and does not require a powertool. If you insist on even widths for you ribs, you may need to trim them with a saw. After bending you can smooth things off with scraping or sanding.

PGJ