: Brian,
: Could you describe those toggles or reference a picture of the setup? Sounds
: like an interesting alternative to bungies.

If you go to the link below and click on the pictures of my SOF boat, the toggles are visible. The basic setup is as follows:

1) Space your deck lines as far apart as the width of your paddle blade, or a bit more (mine are 4" for use with a 3.5" Greenland paddle).

2) Make toggles about the same width, but drill the holes through them closer together (in my case, 2.5" apart).

3) Put both toggles in the center of the deck and thread the deck lines through them. Adjust the length of the deck lines so that you can readily insert a paddle under the toggles.

4) To use, insert the paddle under the toggles. Spread the toggles apart to tighten the deck lines. The paddle will be tightly clamped between the toggles and the deck. Unlike with bungees, there is little stretch in this system, especially if you use polyester deck lines.

One caveat with this system is that it works best with decks that are flat or gently curved. I don't know how well it will work with peaked decks.

I use the rigging on the foredeck to create an outrigger with the paddle whenever I need both hands free (NOTE: This will NOT work with a feathered paddle unless you have a float on it). The aft deck rigging is for rescues and holding my storm paddle. On the aft deck, I have a third line and a toggle on which the forward hole has been cut into a hook. This allows me to connect it anywhere in relation to the toggles on the second line. Using this third toggle, I can wedge the spare paddle under two toggles and get the lines really tight, so the paddle will remain securely in place when rolling.

Note also that the bow and stern paddle holder lines have corks on them to keep them up off the deck. They are polyester cord, too, not bungee and are sized so that they're snug when the paddle is inserted under them slightly from the side, then rotated up onto the deck.