After I broke a redwood one, in almost exactly the same manner. I went to a 1-3/8" x 1" loom, up from 1-1/4" x 1". I've been laminating a center blank of cedar into two outer layers of fir. Picking the fir carefully still keeps the weight down. Ive been laminating parallel to the blade faces, as it's easier to get the shaft straight that way. I think the paddle you had was the one I made before the redwood one, which is the one that broke. Was it redwood, too? Keep a blade for a rolling stick.

If it's any consolation, I really think that once you get familiar with the roll, you wont break any more paddles regardless. But I reserve the right to eat those words Going to the thicker loom adds quite a bit of stiffness, and also carrying the thickness further out the centerline adds a lot of stiffness. While you are carving it down, remove a little bit at a time, testing constantly, and you'll get a feel for it. If I remember right, that paddle went to a fairly thin blade about halfway down the blade face. I was working at eliminating flutter.

As far as laminating, I'd say stick with lightweight woods for the core, and a thin hardwood outer layer. If the edges are a concern, try steaming some ash around them, after cutting the blank 1/4" shy.

And, speaking of trying a hardwood edge, what other woods would work? I have to replace my storm paddle, and want to try adding a "rock" edge. I dont have any ash. I have lots of fir, some oak, walnut, cherry, holly, teak, mahogany, and a little apple. Would any of those be capable of steaming a 1/4 x 3/8" strip around the tip? Holly would be my top pick, if it's pliable enough. I also have some bamboo, maybe that would work?

Ive thought about adding a layer of glass between the laminations, but would I then have to use epoxy, or would polyurethane work? And I'd think Kevlar would mess up a plane blade, but it would sure stiffen up the shaft! You'd lose that as soon as the lamination ended, which in my case isnt far from the blade root. A thinner center blank would address that, but then you lose the mechanical advantage of the composite. I guess if I were to try it, I'd go to a 3/8" center blank, and use 6oz glass/epoxy between the next layers. Going to a 5-layer blank would allow a nice contrast and hardwood combination. I suspect you'd find the added weight undesirable. Try a little thicker loom, and carry that thickness down the blade further, and it should do the trick.

: Don Beale, I'm sorry to announce the demise of one of your
: "children". The long-shafted cedar Greenland paddle you let me
: take home from R2K1? Alas, I overstressed it.

: I had taken in out to see how it behaved in rough water, crossing from
: Sausalito to Angel Island (San Francisco Bay) then returning during a big
: ebb. There's some entertaining tide rips around the point where Raccoon
: Strait meets Richardson Bay. The paddle was a pleasure to brace with,
: although at times I missed my big-bladed euro paddle when trying to crank
: the bow around to control broaching. But that's a technique question.

: Once back in the shelter of the marina, I figured it was time for roll
: practice. Stayed upright through the bouncy stuff, so I had to get a
: snootful of the bay somehow!

: Anyway, after the first successful roll, I tried my off-side. I've never yet
: been able to roll on the left. Blew it this time too - the paddle dived,
: and I had gotten into shallow water near the beach. So I tried to push off
: the bottom. Oops. Snap - right at one blade/loom joint, about an inch from
: the shoulder. That'll teach me to try to cheat.

: Anyway, I think when I carve my next paddle, I'll do a laminate with some
: hardwood. Might add a few ounces of weight, but I think it's worth it.

: So what are folks' opinions - is it better to laminate hardwood strips on the
: face sides of the paddle blank, or right up the center? Preference of
: wood?

: Thanks in advance for the advice.

: Val