Date: 11/6/2001, 4:43 pm
: I just finished carving the bulk of my minicell seat, and was wondering what
: is the best method of smoothing the minicell foam to a finer texture. What
: contact cement or velcro do you recommend? I made the seat a little longer
: to better support my legs which seems to be good in the all important
: living room trial... Any other pitfalls to be aware of?
I used dragon skin to do the final carving. I purchased 2' Velcro from a fabric store and epoxied the hooks to the hull and used 3M 77 spray contact adhesive, after masking, to glue the loops to the foam.
Here is the copy from an old post of how I did the final shaping on my foam seat to eliminate sleepy toes:
I sat the kayak on my living room carpet and stuffed rolled towels on each side to keep the kayak's vertical axis vertical when I sat in it. I then cut a piece of 6-mil plastic to the width of the seat and twice its length. I folded the plastic in half lengthwise and taped the two sides with clear plastic packing tape to make a pouch and then put a new all bees-wax, toilet seal inside, pressed the air out and taped the last side closed. The taping was done with care to avoid wrinkles and to get a leak tight seal all around. I placed the wax filled pouch into a pilot-light-only warm oven for a couple minutes to soften the wax. I put foil to from a drip pan on the shelf under the wax filled pouch for safety. Wax is a fire hazard so I watched closely, a hair dryer might have been safer. As soon as the wax was soft not melted (it turns clear when it melts) I rolled the wax out evenly in the pouch with a rollingpin on the counter top. After warming the wax again until soft, I placed it on the seat of the kayak and sat on it wearing my normal paddling pants. After a couple minutes I got out and lifted the pouch out. Holding the pouch up I could see through the thin spots where the seat applied the most pressure to my buns. Overlaying the pouch back on the seat I noted the pressure points on the foam and marked them with a big felt-tipped marker. I took the seat outside (I used Velcro with hooks epoxied to the hull and pile contact cemented to the foam) and used dragon skin to carve away the marks. I put the foam back into the kayak and did another soft wax impression, marked and carved. I repeated this until the wax was equal thickness over the total impression.
With this method I discovered the seat shape and angle match my shape when sitting in the actual paddling position in my kayak. The final result fits like a glove, so to speak, and no more sleepy toes.
Messages In This Thread
- Strip: seat carving tips?
Dan St. Gean -- 11/5/2001, 12:03 pm- Re: Seat carving tips
Dave Houser -- 11/6/2001, 4:43 pm- Re: Strip: seat carving tips?
Brian Nystrom -- 11/5/2001, 12:41 pm - Re: Strip: seat carving tips?
- Re: Seat carving tips