: Since the CLC sheer clamp needs to be carved to fit the curvature of the
: deck, I suspect the ceiling moulding wouldn't work. Some parts would be
: carved too thin or there'd be gaps between the moulding (right angle) and
: deck. (Just a guess, there. Perhaps the NBXL has almost entirely 90*
: hull/deck angle?)

: Maybe to accomplish the same effect (with more work, unfortunately) fit your
: shear clamps, plane/sand to correct curvature, then router/sand/gouge the
: cove inside?

I am starting on a Chesepeake 14 for my wife and am considering no shear clamp at all, at least not a permanent one. My thought is to hot glue the shear clamp to the outside of the shear panel, build the hull as usual, but before glassing the outside of the hull attach the deck to the shear clamp with screws, fillet the hull to deck seam, remove the screws and shear clamp, trim the deck to the hull, and glass the outside of the hull and deck.

My concern is on the deck beam. I would rather not use it either. I am thinking a temporary form in it's place and remove it after the deck glassing is complete. My worry is will the deck curvature and beam of the boat remain after I remove the temporary form?

Any thoughts?

Bill