: I started ripping 8 foot WRC boards into strips with my new table saw and had
: some problems. I set the fence to cut 1/4 inch strips, using a high
: quality, 10 inch, 60 tooth blade. The test pieces cut a shorter pine board
: well, but when I started cutting the 8 foot boards I found that thickness
: of the strips varied. Both ends of the strips were ok, a 1/4 inch thick,
: but the middle four or five feet were thinner, measuring 3/16 or 7/32.
: Initially, I found that the anti-kickback paw on the blade guard assembly
: was slipping between the fence and the stock, causing the board to be
: pushed out from the fence. I removed the blade guard assembly, but that
: did not entirely fix the problem. I think the problem is mostly due to
: operater error as this was my first time using a table saw. I had a hard
: time keeping the stock seated against the fence. What is the acceptable
: tolerance for strip thickness? Should the strips be cut thicker, like
: 9/32, to allow for planing smooth? Also, some strips have burn marks from
: the blade. Will that sand off, should it be planed, or are those strips
: unusable? The good news is that I now have enough material to build about
: 50 cedar strip birdhouses.

First:
A 60 tooth blade is not the correct blade to use for ripping softwood strips. You will burn and bog down your saw. A 60 tooth blade is usually designed for crosscutting or to be used to cut very hard materials like MDF and plastic laminates.

Ripping blades have fewer teeth, perhaps 35 on 10” blade, and the angle of the tips are different and the gullets are deeper to remove material fast.

A combination blade (for ripping and crosscutting) would be a good compromise. It may have 40 - 45 teeth and will say it is a combination blade.

All the blades I speak of I’m assuming we are talking about carbide tipped blades.

Second:
Learn how to true up the blade and fence. Check the angle of your blade to be certain it’s at 90° to the table top.. Usually instructions for doing this are included with your saw. Wax your tabletop and fence. You will save yourself a lot of grief if you do a little research. Get a book or two on tablesaws.

Third:
Learn how to make and set up featherboards and other hold down devices. It is critical for your safety and for you to handle work accurately to use featherboards and hold downs to keep your fingers away from the blade and your work firmly against the fence to prevent kickback. Make and use push sticks to feed near the blade.

Fourth:
Stand with your body at a 45° angle to the saw table with a wide foot stance.
Place your hands on the board keeping constant pressure against the fence and feed your board smoothly into the blade. Your hands should not apply pressure past the blade.

Finally:
One of the most important factors in cutting consistent strips are your feed tables.
You must have good support for your board going into and out of the saw. Feed tables must be at the height of your saw table and the surfaces of the feed tables or rollers on the feed tables must be angled to keep your board pressure against the saw fence.

Any or all of these factors will work against your cutting consistent strips.

All the best,

Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.LaughingLoon.com