: Would you use CPES if you didnt want it varnished or glassed, but were after
: the oiled finish?

CPES will not provide an oiled finish appearance. It has the characteristic epoxy gloss in the thin film that builds on the surface, or if you sand off the film it looks like native wood. Only difference is that it will not absorb water. If you need the esthetics of an oiled finish, that could be applied to the sanded wood. Defeats the purpose though, of replacing the temporary oil finish with the permanent epoxy.

Gunsmiths use a product called TruOil for refinishing gunstocks. It is very pure linseed oil combined with engineered driers, and probably works better than any of the home-brewed recipes. Available at most any store that sells sporting goods that go "bang".

: I'm seriousy thinking of making a dip container, and soaking mine in turp /
: linseed oil for at least a few hours per blade, possibly overnight. It's
: basswood, cedar, and fir, and will have a hollow loom when I get it done.
: I'm afraid that moisture will condense inside, and have no way out if I
: seal it with epoxy - aside from the fact I dont like the feel of it.

If you follow the CPES instructions and saturate to rejection 3 times, wet-on-wet, you won't have any moisture inside unless it cracks.

: Do you suppose the turpentine would eat the polyurethane glue joints?

Probably not. MEK won't eat polyurethane glue joints, neither will xylene, toluene, lacquer thinner, MIBK, or IPA. A test mockup of scraps would tell the story. Only thing I know of that cuts cured polyurethane is methylene chloride, the sweet-smelling but carcinogenic component in paint strippers. I use it all the time (with proper precautions and personal protective equipment) in 5-gallon lots for cleaning my chemical grout pump - nothing else even begins to emulsify cured polyurethane.