: Ken-My compliments on your boat, it's drop dead gorgeous! Beautiful job on a
: beautiful design! Wish I was within the weight range to build the Shooting
: Star; alas, it could only be a dayboat for me, so I'm going to build the
: North Star instead. I'm curious as to your experience with Gorilla glue;
: did you have trouble with excess foaming? If not, how did you go about
: limiting the foaming? I've used it to glue up high-density urethane sign
: panels; with that broad an application, it foamed a lot. I've never
: applied it as frugally as per stripping a boat; any special
: tips/tricks?-Greg

Greg-No special tricks with the Gorilla glue except to dampen the edges of
the wood before applying and wearing gloves. As you know it is sort of
messy. The glue foams and I don't know of a way to prevent that.
Fortunately, the cured glue is easy to remove. Titebond is much more
pleasant to work with and clean-up is easy with a damp cloth before it dries.
After it dries, however, it is harder to clean up than the Poly glue. I had
some problems with strips creeping on a previous boat and wanted to avoid it
this time. On that boat I used MAS epoxy which softens at a lower
temperature ( heat deflection temperature) than West which may have
contributed to my problem.I won't use MAS again due to a couple of problems
that I never had with other epoxy. I know some people swear by it, but I
know of many that have been disappointed with it. Rob recommends Polyurethane
glue for the deck and Titibond for the hull. My previous problem occurred on
the hull so I wanted to avoid any problems this go around.

Ken