Haven't used G@, but the standard method for oily woods is to wipe them with acetone or MEK immediately before lamination. That removes the oil from the immediate surface, allowing a good bond.

: Many posts to this BBS have cautioned against using teak and similar woods
: because the oils inhibit bonding. Has anyone ever tried G2 by Industrial
: Formulators (Canadian). Following is from their literature.

: "A particularly versatile adhesive because it is formulated for oily,
: dense, and acidic woods and can modify the mixing ratio to achieve varying
: balances between tensile strength and flexibility. Glues teak, cocobolo,
: and all other exotics reliably, with a waterproof clear glue line. Bonds
: like or dissimilar materials, including all woods, metals, glass, ceramics
: and many plastics. The standard 2:1 mixing ratio provides excellent
: tensile strength; increasing the amount of part B to a maximum of a 1:1
: ratio provides sufficient flexibility to laminate materials for archers'
: bows and other extremely flexible objects. The higher concentration of
: part B also provides great impact resistance and the ability to withstand
: the stresses of differential expansion rates between dissimilar bonded
: materials."

I wouldn' be wildly enthusiastic about my bond line shearing under differential expansion rates! Furthermore, assuming that Part A is the resin and Part B is the hardener, with other epoxies increasing the Part B ratio makes a weak, brittle mix. Increasing that Part A creates a weak, flexible mix. Either way, strength degenerates when you deviate from stoichiometric mix ratios. IMHO, to spin that into an advantage requires the twisted neurons of a marketing guru.