: Hey now that im almost done. whats with the amonia and water how many parts
: of what? im using system three pulled an all nighter couple of weeks ago
: while coating the bottom side of my hull, went and put a fill coat on
: about 10 hours later and after it cured noticed that in some places I had
: a slight blush. not a happy camper (kayaker) I knew that sanding gets ride
: of the blush but I didnt know about amonia and I wont be waiting anymore
: between coats without sanding.

: Thnx to all of you.

I have used vinegar and scotch bright pads to remove the blush and soft uncurred epoxy. Jay mentioned ammonia, but I have not used that. Don't use vinegar with steel wool as it will oxidize it and stain the wood.

Easiest is to do a quick wet sand as the blush tends to clog dry paper or if it doesn't have a 100% cure it will also gum things up quickly. The wet sanding avoids this. Use a cloth backed sand paper or the green scrubby pads, then simply wipe clean with a rag. If you need a strong mechanical bond as when laying another layer of cloth or some mounting blocks for accesories, make sure you do a rough sand over that area for the new layer to hold to.

A few years ago I experimented with surface prepartions and epoxying small wood blocks to the surface. A week later I tried to nock the blocks lose with a hammer (very scientific ) and with no cleaning of any sort the block poped right off. With washing, it also was knocked off, but took a little more force. Wet sanding 1st actually caused the block to spit and only a small part of the bonded area broke free. Wet sanding followed by 60 grit held fast, the wood split as a result, but no failure of the bond.

Thus I convinced myself the importance of surface preparation.

Tom