I thought about all this before joining my hull and deck since I planned to do a lot of camping and I have no hatches or bulkheads. But, I was afraid that I might get a foot or something tangled in a line one day making a wet exit and opted to skip it. When I first tried stuffing three drybags in behind the cockpit, along with the float bag, I thought I was screwed. The harder you push on the bag, the fatter it becomes and won't budge. *But*, there is a technique!

Well, this works on the Mariner bags, as they are made of heavy material and are quite easy to slide in. Momentum is the trick. Get the end bag positioned with float bag on top, and slide them all the way in quickly and together. I find using my paddle works best on the aft end. I do have a hand hatch forward, which is just in the right spot. I've never tried loading without using it. I'm sure using the cords would make it easier, but I'm still not fond of having lines in there unless they can be secured in some way. (I figured Shawn would have that figured out.)

Al

: When the bag is pulled in as far as it can go, just quit tugging on the line.
: The bag will sit there very nicely, and so will the line. If you want, you
: cna tie ti to the other end of your bag, or to another bag. that way when
: you pull out the first bag you'll have the end of the pull rope handy.

: when you unload, tie both ends of the pull rope together, making a big loop.
: This way you won't have one end work its way out. If you are in portage
: country and have to unload and reload many times a day, then definitely
: knot or splice that rope into a big loop, and add on a brass bronze or
: stainless steel snap clip -- like the kind you'ld find on a dog leash.
: Then you never have to tie or untie a knot when stowing gear. Should you
: lose the end of this loop, just lift kayak and the weight of the bras
: clasp will pull that line right down to you.

: Hope this helps

: PGJ