: An Endeavour, from Bear Mountain Boats. It has quite a sharp angle at the
: sheer. I'm following the KayakCraft method mostly, except for details like
: the cockpit recess, coaming, and hatch covers. KayakCraft doesn't suggest
: fiberglass tape over the sheer seam. Couldn't hurt to add a strip though,
: I suppose.

The whole purpose of the sheer clamp as devised by Ted is to avoid applying
a second layer of glass over the deck/hull joint. This is also why Ted does his
laminated stems.

Ted knows if you do a poor job of applying a second layer of glass over the stems
or on the deck joint it will be visible. Perhaps back when Ted started he had some
problems with second layers of glass in these areas and never worked to resolve
them. And Ted just likes the looks of 19th century canoes. Which the stems and sheer
clamp evolved from.

If you are not careful, it is easy to make a mess of the glass reinforcement on the stems
and deck joint. If so, certainly use the sheer clamp.

If you are careful, and work with the same conditions as you would to do your larger
glass wet-out your glass will be totally transparent. To do this; work in a warm room,
about 80° which will warm your glass AND resin, so resin will be thinner and the wet-out
will go smoothly; use a slow hardener with the resin, allowing the resin maximum time
to penetrate the glass fibers; and use glass on your exterior seams and stems with an
unfinished edge because the finished edge of seam tape traps air bubbles.

If you are going to apply glass over your deck joint then don't bother with the sheer
clamp. The sheer clamp and laminated stems are a LOT more work to do and add extra
weight.

All the best,

Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.LaughingLoon.com