: Following the thread with definite interest--I've been lurking and ordering
: stuff to build a Spring Run, and my greatest concern is how to avoid this!
: I seem to recall a thread on this a couple of months back; it seemed that
: the key is moisture content in the wood, and warpage that happens when one
: side of the wood is glassed and the other isn't. Someone (was it Rob
: Macks?) mentioned rewetting the wood when this kind of curling happens;
: I'd be most interested in what the collective wisdom is on how to deal
: with the problem, and especially how to minimize/avoid it.

: I do, at least, have the luxury of a basement with pretty constant conditions
: as a worksite. Is there value in sequencing one's work to get the glass on
: the insides as soon as possible after doing the outsides? It occurs to me
: that one might
: -get the hull stripped
: -mask the sheer strake
: -get the deck stripped and ready for glass
: -then use the masking to protect the hull while glassing the outside of the
: deck
: -then remove the deck and glass its inside
: -then do the hull outside followed by inside. Any comments from you pros
: about how to sequence the work for best results? How important is it to
: avoid a long delay between exterior and interior glass application?

: Craig

It doesn’t matter how long you wait, as long as you RECOGNIZE the fact that you
cannot expect the deck and hull to retain the correct dimensions, over long periods
of time, if left with one surface of bare wood to expand and contract with the
varying moisture content of the air in your shop.

You are least likely to have problems if you can glass the inside surfaces
within a week. However, even this time frame offers no guarantees.

I suggest that as soon as you remove your deck from the stations, BEFORE
you take the stations out of the hull, that you mark and make a chart of the
hull widths 2', 4', 6', 8' etc. from the bow. WHEN it is time to glass the interior
surfaces of the hull and deck you can adjust the moisture content of the wood if
needed and use tape to pull in, or sticks to spread the deck/hull to the correct
widths AFTER you apply the glass and wet it out.

Once that second layer of glass has hardened on the inside of the deck/hull
you can still adjust width variations of up to an inch in the alignment of the
deck and hull with the power of stretched clear 2’ wide packing tape.

All the best,

Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.LaughingLoon.com