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Re: Non Blush question
By:Rehd
Date: 2/8/2002, 2:08 am
In Response To: Non Blush question (David Ross)

: I'm using the 127/350 combo on my Guillemot S&G/strip deck combo and love the
: results so far. It seems to take a little longer to cure but, that actualy
: comes in handy for a first timer :)
: My question is, if it doesn't blush, does that mean I don't have to sand in
: between coats? I'm sanding now to be safe but, do I REALY have to even if
: it's cured for a few days?

Hi David

As was mentioned previously, always check your manufacturer for the best advice. I am using RAKA 127/350 combo and I have been adding coats anywhere from next day to 2 1/2 days because of interference with my schedule. Tonight I added fill coat #2 to the Rob-Roy canoe and I could still press my fingernail into the previous coat. Not easily, but that tells me it's still working. Larry at RAKA can tell you better how long you can work between coats and still get a chemical bond. If it reaches that longest figure ( say for example only ) that it is good up to 60 hrs, then I'd day yes, for sure, you should sand it. But, a red flag here, as I was reminded by my canoe buddy this evening, if you are still filling the weave, timing is pretty important. You don't want to go too long between coats of fill so that you don't have to sand the exposed weave. If you cut that weave down you stand a chance of lowering the strength of the layer of glass. I have been trying to work every evening to recoat with fill so that I can get the weave covered before I start sanding/fairing. My RAKA epoxy goes on a little thinner than the West System that he is using and so will probably take more fill coats. I'm sure I will need at least two more coats.... one to fill the rest of the weave and one to add some thickness to work with while sanding.

: The other question is for epoxy in general. If it's mixed right and is too
: cold to cure (50 degrees or so) will it eventualy cure or is it possible
: to keep it cold enough long enough that it will stay rubbery even after
: the temperature warms up? I'd hate to have to scrape off rubbery
: fiberglass because of a week long cold spell in the garage.
: Thanks much!
: -David

Not sure if this will answer your question totally, but, I am warming my garage up to around 70* or better and then shutting down the stove before I start working with the resin. The outside temps. here now are around 30+ degrees at night, and 50*+ in the heat of the day. So, when I turn off the heater, it starts to cool right away and by the time I'm finished coating, I'm sure it's down near 50* or so. The 127/350 combo is a slow mix, I believe, and I've still gotten all my batches, on this boat and some little projects to cure to a sandable finish over night, with one exception, and that was fill coat #1 which was tacky to the touch the next morning. I let it go one more day and recoated tonight. All has gone well to this point.

I, so far, have used Larry's mesuring cups for all my mixes and have gotten them as close to exact as you can get with these cups. I trust that Larry has measured their marks and picked them for his business. I don't trust the pumps as a primary source of dispensing my epoxy. I don't think either the anguish of mis-measureing ( counting pumps ) or a random " Burp " from the pumps is worth the 5 to 10 seconds you save using them. Color me Silly !! I have " yet " to have a bad batch doing it this way.

As I say, I'm not sure all that will help you with your situation, but just maybe........ ????

Good Luck with your project and keep us informed... :)

Rehd

Messages In This Thread

Epoxy: raka epoxy
marc machado -- 2/6/2002, 4:56 pm
Re: Epoxy: raka epoxy
Chip Sandresky -- 2/6/2002, 5:23 pm
Non Blush question
David Ross -- 2/7/2002, 10:07 am
Re: Non Blush question
Rehd -- 2/8/2002, 2:08 am
Re: Non Blush question
Pete Rudie -- 2/7/2002, 12:31 pm
Re: Non Blush question *Pic*
Chip Sandresky -- 2/7/2002, 12:22 pm
Re: Epoxy: raka epoxy
Chris Menard -- 2/7/2002, 8:24 am