Sorry my tip about maybe not hot gluing the seams was terse. I was in a hurry. Nothing has changed - I am still in a hurry.

Air bubbles are a bane and once they are there, they are encased with solid fibreglass and never go away. There are a number of fixes and following responses from the learned BB will be more elaborate.

I found the best was to deal with the few bubbles I ended up with was to cut the perimeter of each bubble out with a hobby knife. You end up with a little crater. The best way to fill this crater is to finely chopp up strands from a scrap of fibreglass mat with sissors. Then mix up a little epoxy and add enough chopped strands to make a thick mix and splodge it into the little crater. Let it set and sand it back. Then move on with your building.

Other methods I have tried was 5 minute areldite. But that fill is too clear and leaves a visible patch - not acceptable to me since I was going for the bright wood finish. The cloth strands helps colour the epoxy fill, a bit like using wood powder/epoxy mix to hide the seams.

Learning as I went along, I ended up following the wisdom of wetting out that is generally advocated on this board and in Nicks Book:

1 Fair everything prior to sheathing till it is good a finish as you can get (arguably it doesn't have to be mirror paint qualitity because the glass can cope with minor holes - but the better the better, I reckon).

2 Do a sealing coat of clear epoxy. This stops untreated wood sucking too much epoxy from under the glass. Leave it overnight

3 The next night lay your cloth in place after laying down your masking tape 'edge lines'. Tape the cloth overhangs temporarily in place (sometimes it doesn't have to be everywhere - I can get away with one side sometimes). Then sqeegie from the middle to the ends - The glass creeps and you can deal with the leading edge of squeegeeing if you only end up with a little pointy end to put back on track/move bubbles out of the way.

4 I haven't done this yet but use a ribbed metal roller to go over the wetted cloth pressing it uniformly onto the ply. I couldn't find one at the time and eventually inherited one from my brother when he had finished with it. But I haven't tried it. I conceed that by just squeegeeing you can get a pretty good job, but sometimes there are little raised areas that might be dealt with by the ribbed metal roller and this might arguably save a little extra random orbital sanding later on towards the end of the project.

Once the cloth is wetted out, leave it for 2 hours and go around your masking tape inner line with your hobby knife and pull the excess overhanging cloth away making sure that any uncut strands don't snag the cloth off the boat. If this does happen say oops and use your gloved finger to poke the still very green cloth back in place and hope nobody saw you do it

I helped a colleague sheathe part of his extreme seagull racer the other day following this recipe and like to think that after we had finished you couldn't really tell we had sheathed it. Cool!

Don't fret too much about your airbubbles. If there are only a few little ones you can easily sort them out, especially if you are going to paint over them later.

Good Luck

Pete