: Would those products be suitable for removing an entire glass coat?

Sure, but they are nasty to work with. Solvent resistant gloves are critical, not just latex or vinyl. Check with a safety supply house for a good recommendation.

Good ventilation and a respirator are musts too. Tyvek suit and tape around the wrists wouldn't be a bad idea.

Plan on some of the stripper being driven into the wood too, and give it a few days to evaporate before sanding. Still, wear a respirator when sanding, and use dust control if you have it. Most ROS's these days have dust ports, and if you rig up a small diameter hose to a shop vac it really cuts down on the dust hazard without making the tool operation awkward. The insidious thing about dust and lung disease is that it may not show up until years later, and you may never know for certain what caused it. (Unless you live near the Libby MT asbestos mine, but even then the knowledge won't do you much good.) It pays to reduce your risk whenever possible.

I like heat for softening epoxy in small areas. No dust, no nasty chemicals, no extraordinary precautions necessary. Most epoxies start to soften around 140*, and give up by 180*. Wood doesn't begin to char until temps get much higher, maybe 500* or so, so there is a big margin for error. Start in one convenient area, like a scratch, heat it with a heat gun until you can slip a putty knife under it, and work from there. A razor knife is handy for cutting strips in the glass as you work. A second or third putty knife is handy for wedging under the glass while you work next to it. If you are careful, and your putty knife is filed down so it has no sharp corners, edges or burrs, you can work at a reasonable speed without damaging the wood. No sawdust, no glass dust, and no chemicals. Voila!