: I built a rigid frame for a planned folding kayak almost 4 years ago. I
: wanted to use it to test the design ( size, handling characteristics, skin
: coatings, etc.) before devoting time to making the hinging hardware for a
: folder. It has been outside, mostly unprotected from the weather ( rain,
: snow, etc.) for all that time. The frames are of 1/4 inch plywood and the
: stringers are of Cedar. (Western Red Cedar, I believe, or should that be
: spelled "rehd"?)
: I used epoxy for gluing several joints and also used a single coat of epoxy
: to cover a good portion of the frame. I finished covering the frame the
: next day with some varnish, so parts of the frame were varnished, and
: parts were epoxy covered. Within a year the difference was extremely
: apparent. The epoxy covered parts looked like new, and the varnished parts
: looked very aged. After three years the varnish was in bad shape, and the
: epoxy still looked about as good as when I cut the wood. Of course my
: memory may have faded about as fast as the epoxy coated wood, and kept me
: from noticing any changes there, but the difference between varnish and
: epoxy was dramatic. Forget varnish. Forget oils. Use epoxy resin.
I think you would get oils
: leaching from the wood overtime that would stain a synthetic skin, or a
: skin finished with latex paints.
I used tung oil on the frame of my boat, I did have a problem with the oil leaching and staining the fabric which was the major factor in my decision to pigment my final coats of PU varnish.
as for support for the boat, nothing could be simpler. Think along the lines
: of creating a simple strongback for supporting the boat during transit,
: much as one is used during construction. Bolt a 8 foot long 2x6 to your
: carriers, and along the length of the 2x6 you can attach 3 to 5 (or more)
: wooden cutouts that will pad and cradle your boat. Cover these with scraps
: of carpeting, and position them so they coincide with the location of ribs
: or frame members on the boat. With several well-padded contact points
: along the length of the hull, and with the 2x6 giving additional support
: over about half the length of your boat you should have no problems. You
: should use a bow and stern line attached to the boat, but not too tightly,
: as safety lines should everything come loose. The reason these are a bit
: slack is to allow for some flexing as you travel over bumps, etc. Have two
: bow and two stern lines on the ends of that 2x6 -- and you CAN tighten
: these securely. Ropes, nets, straps etc. wrapped over the boat and around
: the 2x6 will hold the boat securely to it.
I'd differ with Paul here, Your SOF is going to have a flat deck and a shallow depth. put blocks on your racks so the gunwales rest flat on them. It will be a lot easier than building a cradle for the boat and will support it under the strongest structural member.
: Hope this helps
BK
Hope the sinew is working out OK for you
Messages In This Thread
- Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
Liz Leedham -- 2/17/2002, 1:52 pm- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
Brian Nystrom -- 2/19/2002, 1:08 pm- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
Liz Leedham -- 2/19/2002, 4:09 pm
- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
Jay Babina -- 2/18/2002, 8:55 am- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
Dale -- 2/18/2002, 11:40 am
- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
Paul G. Jacobson -- 2/17/2002, 4:39 pm- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
Bob -- 2/17/2002, 9:45 pm- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
West -- 2/17/2002, 7:35 pm - Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame
- Re: Skin-on-Frame: Care and Feeding of frame