: . . . So, how much wet-sanding and how many fresh coats of varnish?

The same as when you built the boat. Use a coarser, dry, sandpaper to remove the loose old flaking stuff first. Do this by hand. Power sanding with coarse sandpaper will cut too fast. Anything from 120 to 200 grit should do to feather the edges of the old varnish. If it is sticking and not greatly discolored, you can go right over it. Two coats should do, but some people prefer to put on more, wet sanding lightly between coats.

: Any reason to cover scratches with epoxy first? Only if they expose the fabric, or you want to fill a minor gouge. The epoxy, being thicker and curing thru chemical reaction, can be dropped into a gouge, and, if it doesn't run out first, it will set up nicely, regardless of the thickness. A thick coat of varnish will take forever to dry.

: How long can a good varnish job stand up anyway?

when stored in the sun all the time, you can expect a full year, and maybe two. There may be some varnishes that will even go three years, but expect to replace the varnish on alternate years, or sooner. If the wear is not too great, a light hand sanding and a single coat each year can probably work. do this at the end of each season and your varnish will have all winter to cure and harden, and your boat will be ready to go on the first day of spring paddling.

Is this something wood kayak owners do every year? Thanks. I'm
: tackling it this weekend.

Fortunately it goes pretty fast, and as the varnish goes on and things shine up nice and pretty you get to feeling good about it.

Buy a fresh can of varnish and don't stir or mix it for at least a day before using, so you don't have ir bubble trouble.

Enjoy the weekend.

PGJ