simple stuff like when the direction say to trim panels to fit if they don't meet. The four center deck panels might not meet up flush with the two outer deck panels, having only two bulkheads as part of the development of the hull makes the meeting of those four pieces dependant upon a good fit I assume. I get so invested in part of the process that back tracking seems like too much work,,,and this after fielding lots of tech calls for CLC of similar beginner booboos. "if you don't correct it now,,you'll be correcting later on".
So instead of rounding those panels off 1/16",,they get moved towards the cockpit,,with the result the coaming recess gets trimmed 1/8"...with gaps being filled at the "four corners" of the deck area. The deck is upswept at that joint so the center panels are under a slight tension, if they don't fit the stern one popped inward 1/4"...as the epoxy cured. All this is little stuff. Just a reminder that the directions are there for a purpose.
The other departure from the path is that the wired deck and hull are seam glued with thickened epoxy seperately then wired together temporarily. I didn't think that would be very neat, but it is kind of important so that the last 6" of the hull don't get glued into a narrow position. So I edge glued the deck on the outside with unthickened epoxy then temporarily wired deck on the hull, removed it when cured, glued inside of hull, and deck, when cured discovered that I forgot to take into account the stiffening effect of a little epoxy in the last 6" of the bow/stern. It's nothing to worry about in the bow, the stern has about 1/8" total over hang for 3". Given that I end up whacking off about 1 1/2" of bow/stern anyway because stake like ends aren't to my liking I see a happy resolution to this weeks crisis.

I think you are going to be blown away by the speed this kayak goes together.
Nice curves too.