Erez,

I thinkt the pic you are looking for might be the one below. It is from CLC's Shop Tips. Follow the link below to http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips_twist.html

Barry may want to put a string line between the bow and strren to measure how far the sheer is from the centerline on each side of the area in question.

Mike

: hello Barry,

: I am also not confident that everything will be wonderful when you put on the
: deck.

: I recommend you make some more forms that will support the hull from the
: outside.
: If I remember correctly, the stitched hull stands upside down on 3
: "inner" forms, & there are 2 more little forms, one for the
: bow & one for the stern.
: I recommend that you make another "outer" form for each of the 3
: inner forms
: that the hull is supported on, & add more inner & outer forms
: wherever you think it's necessary, & align them with the original 3
: forms.

: I think the 3 supportive forms are not enough to eliminate any twist in the
: hull.

: I used the "broomstick alignment method" to align the 3 forms of my
: Coho, & you can do the same for any number of forms.

: (btw, can anybody show me that excellent drawing that explains how to align a
: hull with broomsticks layed across the hull. thx.)

: I also recommend that you don't wait too long before sealing the hull &
: deck
: because there is a chance they get a twist due to absorbing humidity on one
: side
: while the other side is already sealed. I would say a week or so, but not
: more.

: I am a great fan of industrial dumpsters. I would climb into one near a
: carpentry to get the extra plywood.

: good luck.

: build less paddle more,

: Erez