: looking for other folks preferences before I plunge into the gluing mode,
: I'd like to try other ways of making rub strips without out successive layers
: and feathering, which works but puts more material on either side of the
: wear area than needed. I'm about to experiment with glued 5mm line set
: into a recess then glassed over, dynel cord (how do you make that floppy
: stuff fair up well? I like the 1/8" thick layer of s-glass I've put
: on some boats but the amount of feathering is a pain, brass strips work ok
: but are a little persnickety for some shapes. Nothing like dragging a
: pretty boat by the bow when you have to and not worrying about the stern.

Abrasion keel strip

The fine sharp edges of the stems and keel need protection from abrasion. Fiberglass alone will wear through quickly since fiberglass is impact resistant but not primarily abrasion resistant.

I like to use 1” wide strip of abrasion resistant cloth running from just above the waterline back about five feet from each stem.

There are a number of special abrasion resistant cloths available for this application, such as Dynel, Zynole and polypropylene cloth. I have used all but prefer polypropylene cloth because it is very translucent when wet-out with epoxy resin making the least visible of the three. Dynel and Zynole appear quite white when wet-out.

To make a neat strip straddling the keel / stem edges with clean straight edges do the following:

Prep the surfaces. Sand the stem/ keel edges 1/2’ on both sides with 80 grit for bonding with the resin.

Mask off a 1/2” section on both sides of the keel line starting just above the waterline at each stem going back as far as the cloth width will allow, usually 5’, using 2” wide masking tape so you’ll have a 1’ wide stripe of exposed hull. Mask off the ends of this stripe with tape.

Cut 3” wide strips of cloth from the edge of the cloth width, which normally is 60”.

Tape the cloth over the masked area straddling the 1” stripe of bare hull starting above the waterline at the stems using 3/4” masking tape. Use long strips of tape to hold the cloth securely in place. Apply tape to the outside edges of the cloth but not in the middle on the stem edge. This will allow the cloth to stretch and conform to the stem curve when you pull and tape the other end of the cloth. Pull and stretch the other end of the cloth and tape in place. Make certain each end of cloth overlaps the masking taped end by at least 1”.

Apply more tape at each end to keep the cloth stretched over the stems. Now apply masking tape along the cloth edges to keep the cloth tight and uniformly straddling the bare hull area stripe.

I use resin mixed with fast hardener so I don’t have to wait six hours for it to harden, but you must mix small 1 to 2 oz. batches so the resin doesn’t set-up in the cup before you’re through working with it. Wet-out the cloth using a 2” foam brush. Keep the edge of the brush parallel to the keel line to minimize drips and runs.

If you let the resin harden as is it will leave a rough surface that will have air bubbles, be more opaque, and clog with dirt. To make a smooth, more translucent surface press (with gloved hands) 3” wide strips of waxed paper into the wet resin with the curved surface of the waxed paper down. Overlap the edges of the waxed paper. As you get to the fine edges of the stems use narrower strips of waxed paper so the edges will be in wet resin making the wax paper less likely to lift from the sharp bend. When you reach the curve of the stems switch to clear plastic kitchen wrap to stretch and conform to the curve of the stem. Usually simply pressing the wrap into the wet resin will hold it in place but you can use masking tape to stretch it if needed.

Now wait until the resin sets to a leather hard stage. This is apparent when you can lift the waxed paper from the resin without it sticking. Remove the waxed paper and plastic wrap.

Now put a NEW blade in a utility knife which you will use to cut away the excess cloth from the keel rub strip. Trim away the excess cloth and tape at one end of the masked stripe so you can start to cut on the edge of the 2” masking/cloth. Cut on the edge of the 2’ masking tape where it meets the new cloth rub strip while you lift the masking tape up.

Coordinate the cutting edge with the lifting of the tape and cloth excess so the action of lifting the tape draws it into the blade. Firm pressure is needed on the blade but not too hard as you do not want to cut into the hardened glass of the hull. Don’t get paranoid about damaging the glassed hull. The glassed hull is pretty hard and you’ll have to really lean on the knife blade to do real damage.

You should end up with a very neat clean edged uniform rub strip protecting your stems and keel edges. Sand the sharp cut edges of the rub strip lightly with 80 grit paper. I like to apply a final coat of resin over the hull and rub strip before sanding for varnishing. This melds the rub strip cleanly into the hull.

All the best,

Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.LaughingLoon.com