This is as far as I have gotten so far. I’m sidetracked on my new building my new yak for now. I bought the retractable skeg plans for $10 at CLC. I decided to make the skeg out of Lucite for less maintenance problems. I wanted ¼" thick Lucite and drove 75 miles to Ft. Wayne to a store that I knew had it, but I couldn’t find the store, so I settled on 3/32" thick window replacement Lucite at Farm and Fleet. It’s thin but I think it will hold up OK. I cut two pieces of ¼" luran plywood for the skeg slot box and double epoxied them on both sides. Then I epoxied in the slot spacers to just make the skeg fit slightly snug. This is as where I am at now. When the slot is in the yak I can slide in the slot box and mark the curve of the hull on the bottom side and cut it and then shape the top side so the skeg arm sticks out for some kind of a control wire or something.

Thanks to all for the router information. I am not a router person. One way to get a flat bed on a curved hull for the router to set on, is after you build your slot pattern past wax the hull where the pattern slot board will lay, then take two part auto repair plastic and butter the pattern slot bottom and mash it onto the hull and take a level and reasonable level it. A couple of minutes later when it sets just pop it off and you have a perfect match. We did this alot in patternmaking. I have the router infor printed out so I can think about it.

John