: I think if you did a survey, you would find that many "high
: standards" builders with good lighting wet out glass on bare wood
: like Newfound Woodworks - who has a video on glassing and Bear Mountain
: Boat Shop - author of two of the nicest books on stripping. You are also
: sacrificing a chemical bond for a mechanical one on the glass. It's really
: a matter of choice and belief rather than obvious results. If one way was
: obviously superior, everyone would be doing it that way.

Experienced builders are aware of the variables involved in glassing and can produce
consistent results that a novice cannot.

I used to wet-out over uncoated wood all the time. Over dozens of boats I found a few spots
where there were trapped air bubbles or sliver fleck sections in the glass.

If I'm in a hurry I'll wet-out over bare wood on the hull, but do a seal coat on the deck
before glassing since the deck is the most visible.

Obviously, the interior does not matter, so I never seal the wood here before glassing.

I respond on this BB to specific questions, but my answers are directed to the novices
reading these posts looking for a simple path through the problems presented by all the
variables.

Sealing the wood first, then wetting out the glass eliminates many potential problems.

System Three resins and, I believe, West System resins recommend precoating the wood.

System Three resins assure me there is a chemical bond when the surface is recoated within 72 hours.

If you have not glassed dozens of boats, the difference may not obvious.

My hope is to make the work easier and the results better for you newbies out there.

All the best,

Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.LaughingLoon.com