: I am currently interested in building SOF kayaks from strip-built form boards
: with the center cut out and the chines notched for 1x1 stringers running
: full length. This is the same method that Julio MacDonald(?) did with his
: old/used temporary forms for the Guillemot S&G he built. Below is the best
: picture to explain what I'm trying to say borrowed from Julio on the
: Guillemot site.
: This past weekend I built the frame for a 5 foot version just like this in
: just a couple hours while on a camping trip with my family. In planning
: for this trip, my wife and my neighbor's wife made some stupid rule about
: "NO POWERTOOLS". So I figured I would try a SOF. Sorry I have no
: pictures yet.
: Now for the questions: 1. Has anyone else tried this method. (I tried to
: contact Julio, no luck, old email).
: 2. What type/size of materials would anyone recommend for the forms &
: stringers? (I would like to go ultra-light, but I weigh 200lbs and may end
: up using it in some rough conditions, but mostly day trips in small
: lakes). I thought of using very thin plywood reinforced with strips of
: glass/carbon.

***Better recourse to 1/2inch thick outdoor ply. Or else, High Density Poly Ethylene allows for aluminium stringers to be snapped into round-shaped notches.
Please see:

http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/baidarka/slideshow/node-o01.html

: 3. If I were to use a fairly dark colored paint, could I use 18g galv. brad
: nails or screws to secure the stringers to these forms without lashing?
***Better avoid nails. You'd have to nail or screw into the laminated side of your ply panel, not so good a fix.
Use lashing, see same site for lashing material (BDF kayak, I think).
Or use off the shelf L-fittings connecting wood stringers to the front side of each panel thru screws.

: 4. The Guillemot S&G forms are easy to use, because of the hard chines. Would
: it be possible to do the same exact thing with any kayak design? How would
: you mark the position of the stringers on a more rounded design?

*** Tough point here. Either work from plans including reliable 3-d measurements, or start from a rounder, beamier stack of stations, run stringers along them in a taped temporary setting including some kind of strongback if necessary, mark the connections on stations, then trim them out to desired shape. The stations' sides should be concave so that the skin won't wear on the stations' edges, and so to keep the hull's flexibility in chop.

: Would you have more stringers?

*** Yes, definitely.

: I'm thinking about a skinned Little Auk, is that possible?

*** Yes, now the more rounded the shape, the more stringers you'll have to buy, position, and connect. Starting from the S&G, hard-chined design would be easier.

: 5. How difficult is it to stitch the skin on a skin-on-frame kayak?

***You may want to try glueing or welding a truck tarp on your frame (strong, cheap, no finish); or go with nylon or polyester; or waterproofed canvas.
You may try a search on the qajaqusa.org site (indicated somewhere on this very site).

: I'm sure I have more questions, but rushed for time, I gotta go.
: Thanks in advance, and hopefully I'll take pictures during lunch break.
: SMF

*** You'll need perhaps more info on this, as that means building a boat.
Including life-saving floatation!

Eric