: Hey John,
: Based on your description of the delicate sheer strip and the photos I've
: seen of your attractive but complex sheer detail strip, have you
: considered just stripping the whole hull as per Rob's sequence in his
: plans, so that you know it's built strong and fair, then simply cutting
: out, sacrificing, the couple of plain strips you've already installed
: along the sheer line, replacing them with your detail strip? It would be
: similiar to doing inlay on the deck, cutting out the pattern after the
: deck is stripped.
: Another approach to maintain strength at the sheer: Strip the whole hull,
: then use thin veneer over the solid strips or thicker veneer inlayed into
: a routed channel along the sheer line.

Hi Jim,

I hate to do a veneer or a half veneer rather then a full insert because I feel I would be cheating myself. That’s just me. I could put a full ¾" wide strip down from the top of the shear at 1 3/4" to allow for the feature strip and at the same time strengthen the shear area. I still don’t know how I am going to assemble this feature strip yet. I’m sure I will put the top and bottom boarder each 3/8" wide on the form sections with the 1 1/8" space left in between for the triangles and parallelogram. Then perhaps put duck tape in back with the sticky side out to hold the pieces in place as I glue them together. The other was is to pre-assemble sections about 1 ½" long, then run this through the thin kerf blade of the table saw ( and watch my thumb) and then sand a 2 degree angle on each side of this cut. This allows the sections to bend and curve around the forms. I have already tried this and it works and doesn’t destroy the looks but if I use this method then I have to adjust the two boarders so the whole deco stays 1 ¾" wide. I will practice the two methods on the stern and see which one works best. By just wanting to run the feature strip from the upper bow section causes this whole problem.

John