: You're right though, it's already coming together quickly. All the prep work
: couldn't have taken more than 8-10 hours, and it seems like it's just the
: fun stuff from this point on. . .

At the rate you are working it is probably time to order the fabric for the skin. Then you will have it on hand when you need it, which could be just a couple of weekends from now. If you have your tools, plans, and materials handy it is possible to build a boat like this in 24 hours (not counting time spent waiting for the paint to dry), although most first-time builders take longer. Sounds like you are ahead of the "average" schedule.

One tip for cutting the supports for the floorboards: Putz suggests you cut each one freehand, and fit them all individually. BUT, if you notice, half the floorboard supports are located next to the building forms, and the other half are spaced midway between forms. You'll still have to freehand the midway forms, but you can just cut out duplicates of the tops (actually the bottoms, but you are building this upside down, so it is the top) of your middle forms and those pieces will need minimal adjustment to fit. If you want to do it mathematically, using the data from the graphing points, you can add the thickness of your stringer to the height of the keel to the chine, Or, to make things easier, use a pencil and cardboard to just trace the appropriate building forms, and draw a baseline at what will be the top of the lower chine.

Once you have this basic shape, cut away material so it only makes contact with the chines it is attached too. You can even draw this shape directly on your building forms for reference.

Putz likes to use crossbracing, or trestling, to brace the chines that make up the sides of the kayak. I like the idea used by Klepper for many years, where they reinforce and stiffen these parts with rectangular pieces of plywood attached to the inside of the chines.
happy building.

PGJ