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Re: Delamination
By:Mike Loriz
Date: 4/28/2002, 10:43 pm
In Response To: Re: Delamination (Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks)

Nick-

: I agree that if you get everything else "perfect" most failures
: will be somehow related to delamination. While a few of the test samples
: showed sharp, distinct breaks in the fabric and wood, most showed some
: signs of delamination that probably happened before final
: "failure".

Not to beat a dead horse, but is it possible that the delamination is (microscopically, perhaps) initiated by a failure of the core material in compression, and that by selecting a core material of greater compressive strength that delamination might be posponed until greater deflection occurs, and greater strength develops?

: With this in mind we need to think about how to maximize the inter-lamination
: strength. Seems you want a strong bond to the wood, and tight spacing
: between the cloth and wood.

Agreed. My milling experience has influenced my glueup procedures. Milling certain species, I have to take a break after opening up a green log it's so purdy just to gawk. Within a few minutes, though, it changes. Oxidation, or drying, or some combination, I don't know. But I always joint or scuff an edge just prior to gluing to get a fresh surface.Same thing prior to seal coating.

: A strong bond requires good absorbtion of the resin into the wood to maximize
: the adhearing surface area and mechanical grip and the resin having good
: adheasive properties. Epoxy is a good adheasive and this is one reason why
: it is prefered over polyester resin. Not using too fine a sandpaper will
: promote good absorbtion and make a rougher surface for a better mechanical
: bond, but it may also lift the cloth away from the wood more than if the
: wood was smoother. Also feeding the wood resin until it stops absorbing
: will maximize the absorbtion. But, greater absorbtion will increase
: weight.

: I generally recommend a seal coat on the wood before glassing, the downside
: of this is it limits how much resin is absorbed (good for weight, bad for
: strength), it makes it so some of the epoxy-to-epoxy bonding is mechanical
: not chemical, and it will tend to build up a layer of epoxy that lifts the
: cloth off the wood. The problem with skipping the seal coat is it is
: ha26tm to control, as the wood keeps absorbing resin so the cloth may end
: up starved which will produce air bubbles and visible cloth.

: I would also speculate that Mike's idea of using hardwood may result in a
: weaker epoxy-to-wood bond because the hardwood will not absorb the resin
: as readily. But then again, the may just mean that you don't need to worry
: about doing a seal coat at all.

On both boats, I used a seal coat everywhere. I sanded, sealed, the within 18-24 hours, glassed, then filled. All subsequent coats after sealing were done while green, and I thought this was giving me a chemical bond. Is this not the case?

: I'm sure that if someone really wanted to get involved with the material
: science of wood-glass-epoxy composites that there would be a lot of
: factors that would have to be considered to make the
: "ideal/optimum" layup. What I am not so sure about is if the
: "optimum" layup would be a large improvement over a well done
: "standard" layup. I'm sure the standard can be improved upon,
: but when you take into account factors like ease of building, time, cost
: etc, the standard (6 oz glass on 1/4" cedar) works pretty well.

True, and this prompted my Angel on a pin comment. I mean, my best finished work wouldn't make it into the offcut pile of others here. 'Optimum' refers to my next boat, not to anyone else's.

However, there is a small problem. My wife and I are wimps. 5-9/155, 5-3/125. I'm 155, happily. The difference between a 50# boat and a 35# boat is huge to pathetic physical specimens such as us.

The analogy of the wood glass sandwich to the I beam got me through the first boats, but it seems more complicated than that right now. The sandwich is up to five zones: A core of E from 1-2.5x10^6, thin outer glass layers of E about 10x10^6, and two transition layers where God knows what is happening. I'm trying to find a little wiggle room in there somewhere.

Love the boats. The next ones will be better.

Messages In This Thread

Launching: photos?
Mike Loriz -- 4/23/2002, 9:16 pm
Another pic
Mike Loriz -- 4/24/2002, 10:40 am
Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Mike Loriz -- 4/24/2002, 2:18 pm
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Sam McFadden -- 4/25/2002, 12:56 am
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Mike Loriz -- 4/25/2002, 9:17 am
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Sam McFadden -- 4/25/2002, 11:27 am
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Andy -- 4/27/2002, 11:09 pm
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Sam McFadden -- 4/28/2002, 9:52 pm
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Mike Loriz -- 4/25/2002, 1:07 pm
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Sam McFadden -- 4/25/2002, 11:39 pm
Re: Newbie contruction review, hardwood difs
Mike Loriz -- 4/26/2002, 10:15 pm
Other species
Sam McFadden -- 4/27/2002, 12:09 pm
Re: Other species
Mike Loriz -- 4/28/2002, 9:10 pm
Re: Other species
Sam McFadden -- 4/28/2002, 9:45 pm
Re: Other species *Pic*
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/29/2002, 9:14 am
Re: Other species
Sam McFadden -- 4/29/2002, 5:27 pm
Go with the old wood/canvas canoe model
Paul G. Jacobson -- 4/27/2002, 12:48 am
Re: Go with the old wood/canvas canoe model
Mike Loriz -- 4/28/2002, 8:49 pm
Re: All Wood
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/26/2002, 10:06 am
No angels, pins or dancing needed :)
Paul G. Jacobson -- 4/25/2002, 9:10 pm
Re: No angels, pins or dancing needed :)
Mike Loriz -- 4/26/2002, 10:04 pm
Re: No angels, pins or dancing needed :)
Sam McFadden -- 4/25/2002, 11:24 pm
I would like jump in here
David Hanson -- 4/25/2002, 4:51 pm
What about using 1/8" Red Elm for strong strips?
John Monfoe -- 4/26/2002, 7:22 am
Re: What about using 1/8" Red Elm for strong strip
Mike Loriz -- 4/26/2002, 9:42 pm
Re: What about using 1/8" Red Elm for strong strip
John Monfoe -- 4/27/2002, 6:17 am
Re: What about using 1/8" Red Elm for strong strip
David Hanson -- 4/26/2002, 11:44 am
Use both feet :)
Paul G. Jacobson -- 4/25/2002, 9:58 pm
Re: I would like jump in here
Mike Loriz -- 4/25/2002, 9:40 pm
Now we are getting somewhere
David Hanson -- 4/26/2002, 11:36 am
Re: Now we are getting somewhere
Mike Loriz -- 4/26/2002, 9:33 pm
Re: I would like jump in here
Andreas -- 4/26/2002, 10:44 am
Re: I would like jump in here
Mike Loriz -- 4/26/2002, 9:04 pm
Re: The Wood Matters *Pic*
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/26/2002, 12:48 pm
Its a bird its a plane its a .....?
!RUSS -- 4/26/2002, 5:34 pm
Re: Its a bird its a plane its a .....? *Pic*
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/28/2002, 11:55 am
Re: The Wood Matters - You are right
Andreas -- 4/26/2002, 2:47 pm
Re: Credit *Pic*
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/26/2002, 5:16 pm
Re: Credit
Andreas -- 4/26/2002, 6:16 pm
Re: Delamination
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/28/2002, 12:41 pm
Re: Delamination
Mike Loriz -- 4/28/2002, 10:43 pm
Re: Delamination
Sam McFadden -- 4/30/2002, 12:08 am
Re: Delamination
Mike Loriz -- 4/30/2002, 12:37 pm
Calculations
Sam McFadden -- 4/26/2002, 12:43 pm
Re: Calculations
Mike Loriz -- 4/26/2002, 9:19 pm
Re: Newbie - Not!
Chip Sandresky -- 4/24/2002, 3:05 pm
Re: Newbie - Not!
Mike Loriz -- 4/24/2002, 7:06 pm
Re: Newbie - Not!
Steve Frederick -- 4/24/2002, 10:22 pm
Re: Newbie - Not!
Mike Loriz -- 4/25/2002, 8:44 am
Re: Launching: photos?
Mike Loriz -- 4/24/2002, 10:35 am
Re: Launching: photos?
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/24/2002, 9:35 am
Re: Launching: photos?
Bobby Curtis -- 4/23/2002, 11:14 pm
Re: Launching: photos?
Mike Loriz -- 4/24/2002, 7:00 pm
Doh!!
Sam McFadden -- 4/23/2002, 11:01 pm
Re: Launching: photos?
daren neufeld -- 4/23/2002, 10:29 pm
Great!
Sam McFadden -- 4/23/2002, 10:55 pm
Re: Great!
Mike Loriz -- 4/24/2002, 6:57 pm
Re: Launching: photos?
John Schroeder -- 4/23/2002, 10:17 pm
Re: Launching: photos?
Ronnie -- 4/23/2002, 9:28 pm