A few hints for those of you lofting with a computer.

It usually isn't necessary to plot every point on a former, except for the small ones at the ends. If the program you are using has a good "Curve" tool (most CAD and technical drawing tools will) you can usually get by with far fewer points than Nick has provided.

This is easy to check for yourself. Plot all of the points for one of the larger formers and draw the curve. Then re-draw the curve (right on top of the first) by selecting every 3rd or 4th point from the original (use a different color). Zoom in as large as you can and look for discrepancies between the two lines. If you pick the right points there shouldn't be any! Be sure to pick some of the more important points including at the sheer and on either side of a major change in direction. With a little practice you'll quickly learn what the major points are in defining the outline.

Be aware that you don't usually have to plot both sides of a former. They should be mirrors of one another! Plot the right side and make a mirror copy for the left. Sometimes, when the deck has a smooth curve this won't work, you'll end up with a "peak" where it should be smooth. In this case plot the "points" for one side, copy & mirror them, and then plot the whole "curve". (I hope this makes sense...)

Do you get tired of typing the "-" for all of the points below the waterline? If so, and you have the table in Excel as I did, you can pick an arbitrary point, say 5 inches below the waterline as the "Origin" for your plot. Add this constant to all of your "Y" values, and now everything is positive.

Hope someone finds this useful. Building is a heckuvalot more fun than lofting...