: Yes, you're right - It's 3/4 at the grab loop with a taper to 1/8 at the
: bottom.

: What I'm doing is trying to avoid those sharp, thin and pointy ends that is
: common in wood kayaks. It's an artistic call more than engineering.

Here are some form-follows-function reasons that you can also give people:

• A thin edge can actually be painful to lift--doing a T-reacue, or carrying a loaded boat--one hand on the grab loop, one on the

• A thin edge is more difficult to drape glass over

• A thin edge concentrates a blow to the stem--resulting in more point loading and pressure. More damage possible than a larger radius which will spread the blow.

: Commercially made boats have a thickness at the grab loop point that
: visually gives a solidity to the craft. This is what I'm trying to
: achieve. You could go for thin ends to your boat but I believe these small
: details, which really don't take much effort add up and make a decisive
: difference in the look.

: You want at least an eighth, so you have surface to glue on your external
: stem pieces.

I like some ash laminated on as external stems--more stiffness and toughness under your glass--less likely to crush under the glass.

Shawn

: The other thing you can do after the hull is stripped is
: grind a bit of material away and expose more thickness. Since you're new
: it's confusing but once you do it you'll find there's a million ways to do
: things. Sorry if I created any confusion. I would go with the 3/4 to 1/8
: taper ... and don't wory about it. As long as you get a taper it will look
: good. You will carve it thin below the water line with the external stem
: material so it slices through the water nicely.