I was under the impresion that they were non blushing.
thanks for the advice other then that!
Dave
: Although you have gone through a lot to get where you are now, you're not in
: that bad shape. Sand first, then epoxy. Sanding not only levels, it cleans
: as well (blush) which is why you usually get pockets in epoxy.

: As for your bare wood giving you pockets, It probably had some kind of
: contamination, oil, wax etc. which caused the pockets. Once a surface is
: sanded clean, you never get that.

: Many people use non-blush epoxies now which really helps with all of that.
: (but you don't have to)

: When you wet out glass, epoxy is in the depressions in the weave and on top
: of the threads as well. It's good to give it a light sanding taking off
: the epoxy thats up on the strands. Then use some ammonia and water and
: scrub the surface with a scotch bright pad - hard - cleaning any blush
: that's in the depressions.

: If you know your epoxy, many people give subsiquent coats within the window
: of adhesion (specified by the manufacturer) Basically the sooner the
: better.

: Since you've had problems, I would mix a small batch and watch it for a half
: hour or so to see if it seperates before I start coating the whole boat.

: You could user a thickner like graphite, however with 3.5 oz cloth as you
: used, it's really not very rough and not necessary. With really aggressive
: cloth, some people will squeege on a filler coat - but not usually for
: kayak builders who desire tansparent sheathings.