: Several posts have recommended a model first. THat sounds like a great idea.

: Think this one through first. Slicing a model makes it easy to measure the
: offsets on the buttocks and waterlines. The proper next step would be to
: scale these offsets up and loft the shape out at full size. If you skip
: directly from the sliced model to the forms, eliminating the lofting step,
: you have no way to fair out any inacuracies in the model or in the
: measuring process.

For his purposes lofting may not be necessary. He is looking for something to block the wind, not to push through water. Drag is far less! So, the need for precison is reduced as well. When building the final iceboat he can correct the (few) forms as he goes, and do so mostly by eye or by applying a few strips during the setup.

Or, he can spend a little more time sanding to fair an area.

I don't think we are trying to pass some airtunnel tests. Let me know if I am wrong here. Otherwise, whatever looks good will be good.

Working with fewer forms spaced over greater distances (18 to 24 inches or about 45cm to 65cm) tends to even things out, too, with the bending of the strips providing a fair curve (mostly) over the distance between the forms.

I'm not too fond of the accuracy of photocopiers, but enlarging the sections will get you close to what you want. you can tweek things from that point by adjsuting the wood forms with a saw or sander -- or measure the photocopies, adjust the numbers mathematically and redraw them.

Just some thoughts.

PGJ