Most of the instructions I've seen result in boats that are in between the size of traditional Greenland boats and commercially manufactured boats. The two biggest "mistakes" are too much hull depth and too much foredeck height.

FWIW, I knocked an inch off Morris' recommended height at the backrest beam and made the bow and stern proportionally lower using the same formulas he suggests. The main goal was to make a boat that's easy to lay back in. Toward that end, I made the coaming only 1" tall with a 1/4" thick lip. That allowed enough room for the spray skirt without compromising layback clearance.

I found that hips+one fist is a good starting point for width.

Unfortunately, I made the foredecks on both of my boats too high. It seems that the natural tendency is to "fudge" the measurment a bit in order to make sure that the maskik isn't too low, precluding you from getting in. Until I had the opportunity to try a boat that really fit properly, I didn't realize what a mistake this is. As Greg said, the boat becomes part of you. It fits like a broken in pair of jeans, close, but with just enough room to be comfortable. When you get it right, it's magic! Now, if I could only build one that way!

I'd suggest that you build the rest of the frame and fit the masik last, as Starr's book suggests. There are just too many variables in the process that can cause problems if you fit the masik first early on.

Please keep us posted on your progress.