: Rehd,

: I like the idea but don't quite get the picture. Here you have a blade held
: in correct angle to the surface of the glass/sandpaper. There you have a
: holder which you use to stroke the surface of the blade on the sandpaper.

Hi Rick

What I have is 10 little 4 1/2" x 5 1/2" rectangles of silicone-Carbide paper contact cemented to the Glass. Progressing around the glass and then there's a little open area in the middle. The holder ( guide ) I use is one I picked up at either Sears or Home Depot and has two little wheels on the back side. The blade clamps in the other side so in affect you have a tripod where the blade is riding on the paper and the wheels are rolling. There is an angle guage on the back, but it's pretty much inaccurate. I just use it to keep track of where I set each blade. I do the actual setting by eye with the blade sitting on the glass.

With the paper wet, starting with the 220 I start moving the blade over the paper in ( first ) a straight motion fore and aft. But, since I've always used the figure 8 motion to sharpen I tend to wander into this motion as well. On this paper set up, it's not neccessary as I believe it was originally suggested to keep stones from wearing too much in one particular area. With the wheels on the back side, you can virtually roll it in just about any pattern.

I do as the "Scary Sharp" directions called for and work it till I have one and only one pattern of scratches on the surface. That's all you need, unless you have a nick in the blade and have to work this out. Then you move on to the next grit. Following the same sequence until you see only one size scratches on the surface. It's pretty obvious once you start changing grits.

By the time you get to around 1000 you won't be able to actually see the scratches any more...... or let me correct that..... "I" can't. But, you will start seeing a sheen to the surface and the higher you go, the clearer it will get until you can see in it as well as any mirror you've ever used. I believe there are higher grits than 2,000, but I see no need for them. This will get you to a razor sharpness with just the 2,000. As I mentioned, I shaved both my arm and my face with the block plane blade the very first time I did this style sharpening. No Bleeding!!

: You do not use a circular motion, so you must use a linear motion, back
: and forth I presume. Is that motion as though the blade is cutting into
: the paper or is it 90 degrees to that direction? Does the blade holder
: also rub on the sandpaper, or is it on the glass next to the paper?

Yes, the motion is as if you were useing the blade. I tried it the other way, but my particulay brand " cheap " of guide tends to wobble in that direction. It does a much better job of staying put with the fore and aft motion. I found that if I put my hand over the blade and applied pressure at that point, my hand ( rolling motion built in ) would tend to affect the pressure on the paper and I was getting off-angle cutting. So, I keep my hand back over the hinged area of the guide and let the guide and blade surface do the work. Much better affect. In order to get use out of the entire sheet of paper, the guide wheels get close to the paper, but it doesn't actually go up on the paper. That would cause your blade to rock up and affect the angle of the blade making a rolling affect. This guide is about 6" to 7" long and the blade sticks out another 1/2" or so to get a certain angle, so it doesn't need to come all that close to the paper. That's where the open area of the glass comes in handy. But, if the guide WAS to ride on the paper all the time, that would be O.K. too. Just no variation.

I could take a picture, but my computer hates my scanner at the moment. I got it at Home Depot I believe ( the guide ), ... BUT ... If I were to get another one, I would go to Lee Valley or another reputable outfit to get something more accurate. I'm not sure that I'm getting a true angle on my blades.

: And, OBTW, if you have a picture of your little holder it would help me too.
: I enjoy the wheels you have already invented.

I doubt I've invented anything but Sass on this board. I've gotten most of my ideas from similar jigs and forms seen and used in cabinet and furniture shops I've worked at in the past. Some work here, and some get modified, but all the real ideas come from older and wiser craftsmen of days past.

Since I'm not into buying really expensive tools, I can work with this one on the occasional project here. But, I would surely like to upgrade at some time. Not knowing the exact angles kinda bothers me...... but for now, it works. One thing I have learned over the years.... ADAPT!!! That's how jigs are made and new ideas are formed.

Also, as an aside.... planes aren't always the most effective tool to do what you are doing now. I have made up some fairing boards that I have and will continue to use in fairing hulls. As in body shops for cars, these long flexible sanding boards at times can work to better effect than the planes.
I make mine out of 3mm or 4mm plywood, cut and sand a little block of wood and screw them on from the bottom ( countersinking the screws of course ) and glue them. Then buy some good quality sanding belts, cut them at or near the seams and using the 3m Super77 spray adhesive, contact cement the belt to the bottom of the boards. They work really great to get good long smooth curves. I use them on the outside curves by holding the handles and applying just enough pressure to make total contact and move in line with the grain, as best you can. On the inside curves, I hold the rear handle and apply pressure on the middle of the plywood board until the middle touches. It doesn't take much as they flex very well. If you want them less flexible, run the outside grain lengthwise. If you want more flexible, run the outside grain across the width of the board.

My theory is, if you need to remove edges or big chunks, use the plane. If you are just tryin to smooth out the surface use the fairing boards and make up two or three with differnt grits so you can work down from maybe 60 to 120. Long full upper body strokes work very well and the exercise is aerobic.

: Desperate in Ohio,
: as I am in the middle of planing a Guillemot.

: Rick

Sorry about the " No Picure " situation, but I hope this has helped a little and at least got you going in the right direction.

Oh, and once in a while, when you get your blade down to the 1,000 grit you may cut your paper if you let the guide wobble at all. Be careful. It's easy to peel one off and replace though ( the paper ).

Oh, again.... You don't always need to start with 220 grit. If you are sharp and just working the blade down a bit, then hit it from around 600 or 800 up and you should be fine. The 220 and up are for damaged or badly worn tools, which mine get to be once in a while. ??? I have grandchildren who want to help...... and I let them. ??

Rehd