Date: 12/30/2002, 12:23 am
: I've read Nick's book front to back 6 times. I did the lofting for the
: Guillemot. Then I copied the half diagrams on a Xerox photocopier in my
: office, flipping each diagram to get the mirror image.
: Problem: As the forms got bigger (#7, 8, 9) I turned the diagrams 90 degrees
: to fit on legal, then ledger size paper. I wasn't consistent, e.g. for
: form 9 the right side was made on the copier 90 degrees from the left
: side. Shouldn't matter, right? Well it does on my copier: although copied
: at the copier 100% setting, it turns out that the x axis is slightly
: larger than 100% compared to the y axis, probably to eliminate a dark left
: edge. I discovered this after my "mirror images" didn't line up
: when copied at 90 degrees to each other. The difference was about 1/8, so
: I split the difference. Proceeded to glue the diagrams to my plywood, cut
: them all out with a jig saw. But that difference bothered me, so I checked
: all my forms. Low and behold, every form is slightly larger at the x axis
: (1/8 of inch on average) at the SWL. I've tried using a hand held electric
: planer to knock off the excess (I traced the true line from each original
: loft diagram onto the glued "copies"), with inconsistent
: results. On each form, I am too large by 1/16 to 1/8.
: My question: Must I retrace and recut all of my forms, or am I o.k. at these
: tolerances? I know the boat will float, but am I within suitable
: tolerances to proceed--given that the kayak will be planed and sanded
: fair?
Hey Russ,
We used to say in construction work pertaining to Gov. jobs that,"anything within a foot was "Perfect." Well, I think on a yak, I'd want it a little closer than that but the point is -- you don't have to have it "exact". The thing is , you want all the curves to be "fair" ( a smooth curvature). An 1/8th of an inch split between two sides (1/16th on each side)isn't much. But if you can draw the true line close to where it should be, then you can use one of those small, cheap sanding stations like sears sells( I think thats what they are called - with the sanding disc with the little table plus the sanding belt) to sand down to the line and get it close to where it should be. I used one on my Guillemot L forms and it worked great. (this time I bought the plans from Nick)
If I built the yak for my wife that DID build - on that ragged set of forms that I hacked out, then you should have no problem at all. If it was me in your shoes right now, I'd sand the forms as close to "right" as I could get them, and then I'd mount them on the strongback and start stripping the boat! Nick even stated in his book that the strips will "take on a fairness" (or something like that) of their own. This "fairness of their own" if you watch for it AND allow it to occur will compensate for minor deviations in the forms.(keep in mind tho' that I've only built one boat but -- I do get more than a little envolved with detail) On the Guillemot L, that I'm trying to get started on now, I'm going to mount the forms on the strongback, in the right-side up position and line them up as close as I can. Then I'm going to flip the set-up up side down and check the alignment of the keel line and adjust as necessary as the keel line, in my opinion, is more important to have straight than the deck line. ( you don't want your yak going in circles as you would get bored with the scenery pretty quick)Then I'm going to get started stripping out!
You don't have to listen to my advise, and probably shouldn't, but, you can drive yourself literally NUTS (and believe me I'm one who knows)trying for "exact perfection.("Oh my! now its "exact" Prefection) NOTE: Would you believe a window just popped open and said that I have been idle for 45 minutes and I would be disconnected if I didn't click on the "Do Not Disconnect" button. Thats how long I've been working on this post, trying to get it just the way I want it! I gotta be nnnnnnuuuuuutttttttttssssssss.
Maybe someone else will chime in and you will totally ignore a nut like me.
Anyway, there is my opinion.
I'm tired.
Now its been an hour on one post -- someone shoot me so I can get some relief! Quick!!!
Now its been 1 hour and 20 minutes after the "Preview Message' and the adjustments! The sad part is: there's one more msg that I wanted to respond to. Man . . . am I ever glad my wife is sooooo understanding!!! She went to bed 2 hrs ago!
I'm done . . . I think . . . At least I'm havin' fun!!! Life is SOOOOO good!!!!!!
Messages In This Thread
- Strip: How much precision necessary for cutting forms?
Russ -- 12/29/2002, 7:33 pm- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin
Chip Sandresky -- 12/30/2002, 12:52 pm- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin
Jay Babina -- 12/31/2002, 10:55 am- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin
Rick Allnutt -- 12/30/2002, 3:46 pm - Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin
- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin
Timothy -- 12/30/2002, 10:02 am- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin *LINK* *Pic*
Bobby Curtis -- 12/30/2002, 8:21 am- Nice shop *NM*
Elliott -- 12/30/2002, 8:31 am- Re: Where's the Dust? *NM*
Steve Frederick -- 12/30/2002, 6:48 pm- Re: Nice shop, second
David Hanson -- 12/30/2002, 10:42 am - Re: Nice shop, second
- Re: Where's the Dust? *NM*
- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin *LINK*
Charles Leach -- 12/30/2002, 12:23 am- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin
Russ -- 12/31/2002, 5:42 pm
- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin
- Re: Strip: How much precision necessary for cuttin