Larry and group

For my first yak I used Titebond II and was disappointed with the glue color after drying (daerk lines on a poplar hull). I had no idea what I was doing till half way through the building I was given Nick's book, which I think is The Bible of kayak building. He brings up a good point about the function of the wood using an I beam comparison. That got me to thinking and when I built the second through fourth yaks, I used Elmer's White Glue in the industro-size jug. The stuff dries clear and doesn't stain, and I had many wonderful nightly cleanups peeling the dried glue off the hands just like when I was kid.

I tried a series of break tests using mahogany-to-poplar cove-and-bead strips and found that Gorilla glue was the strongest, then Titebond II and white glue. That said, over the years I've managed to scrape down to wood with no ill effects from continual soaking till I got around to patching and repairing.

The issue of heat stability is something I never considered...however, I think the epoxy and glass layup should take care of any issues of the glue failing. Am I wrong to think this?? In my experience I've left one or more of the yaks in the hot sun atop the 4Runner or PreRunner for days and days (because I was lazy) and nothing bad has happened yet... (here's a visual picture, miles offshore, rough day, cold water, and the yak disassembles itself into constituent strips).

Now that I've said my spiel about white glue, the GPs I made I used Gorrila Glue for it's strength and stability as well as high water resistance.