: I'm wondering if anyone has tried to engineer their own version of a rudder
: control system in which the pedals are fixed and the rudder is controlled
: by the toes with an extension. It seems like a good idea, but what do I
: know? (I've never even used a rudder, but I've wished I had one while
: fighting weathercocking in heavy weather.) I'm wondering about having
: enough foot room, how much control such an arrangement would give you,
: whether your toes can exert sufficient force, etc. Any thoughts?

There are other ways to reduce or eliminate weathercocking, each with pros and cons. In order of ease:

1- Add ballast as far aft as possible. Adds a little drag. If you are hauling gear pack more weight aft than forward and forget the ballast.

2- Try moving your seat aft 2 to 3 inches. You will need as much space in the cockpit cutout or enlarging it will be an effort. Any knee braces and hip pads may also need to be moved. Try just the seat first to find the required adjustment. Tracking will not be affected much.

3- Add a small fixed skeg near the stern I prefer a long skeg with very little height. Make it over sized to cause lee cocking and, by trial and error cut it down until your kayak just slightly weathercocks. It will add noticeable tracking (loss of maneuverability) to the kayak.

4- Install a skeg box with an adjustable skeg.

5- Lower the rear deck. Ridiculous!

6- Raise the bow (front deck). Ridiculous!

7- Install a peddal operated rudder. It is an effort to install, gets in the way of rear deck self rescues, requires maintenance, when up exacerbates weathercocking requiring its use in lighter crosswinds, and it adds drag. It does provide the most control with less paddling skill level.

I trimmed another 1/2" off the skeg after taking this picture.