I also would not take the hull off the forms now just to make the bevel. Estimate the bevel on the deck, even if it does not exactly match the hull at this time. Then when you have everything glassed up and are ready to join, finalize the bevel on the hull and deck.

: if take off, for sure you should add the extra strength of glassing the hull
: 1st

: but dont take if off just for this reason. I found it a snap to make and to
: estimate a rolling bevel over complex curves as well by just running a
: long flat file abt 90 deg to the yak(inline w/ the forms) just sort of
: whacking back and forth betw any 2 forms and pointing it so that it is
: always perpendicular to the tangent of the form shape. or real simply,
: pointing in the the ctr of form in usual case and then down to 45 deg in
: yr case. the angle of change of the bevel is 1/2 the change of the angle
: of the strip so there is not as hard to estimate.

: then right at each form is left a tiny, tiny little nub of cedar, just flat
: slice off w/ a razor knife.

: (on my yak, which has odd curves, i quickly changed to (over) bevelling the
: strip last glued on the forms because i was screwing up the rolling
: locations so much. the underside of the next strip to be attached was
: under bevelled to a more consistent angle or in low angle cases not at all
: )

: the nice thing abt a long flat file is that the rolling bevel angle
: estimating is fairly easy.