Dave, a few niggling details about the "fitting out" drawing. Grab loops are generally discouraged as they aren't comfortable for carrying and provide entrapment should one hold onto the ends and the kayak tumble,,it's not a "flat water" detail, it's a bad idea. The foreward deck bungie is shown right up against the forward edge of the coaming, that's too close you don't want any opportunity for the grab loop to get caught under the bungie. The foredeck bungie that's up next to the forward hatch is so far away to be less than useful. The paddle float rigging on some of the first CLC boats was too narrow to accomodate the average 6" wide blade because the hatch was located too close to the coaming. It's a minor thing but as long as the rigging is there for a purpose the hatch should be located far enough back to allow for it. The 1/4" dacron 'tow line' going off a cleat and through the bow loop is interesting but kind of leaves one wondering what's happening at the other end, a tow belt might be a better idea and a seperate topic. I re-rigged all the old CLC demo boats and those details kind of stuck out. All it takes is seeing someone try and carry a kayak with a loop for any distance or grab a boat in the surf to see the problem. Trading broken fingers for aesthetics is a bit odd. Likewise the number of beginning paddlers that put their skirt grabloops under the bungie, capsize once with it under the bungie and the importance of not having the bungie run under the coaming will become evident. I like folded webbing anchors for a lot of reasons one of which is the ability to make the loops big enough for multiple lines or to add D-rings to the foredeck bungies for holding charts or whatever. It's worth making an extra loop at the aft hatch webbing anchors so that the perimeter line can get anchored there and not get pulled into the underside of the hatch. On the forward hatch make only two loops for the perimeter line so that there's a handhold big enough between the two outer anchors. Anything to make the line attracive to grab and NOT the hatch webbing or hatch where the fastek buckles can snap under the exertion of a heavy person struggling is worthwhile. 1" Fastek buckles really aren't designed for high cyclic loads, they're perfect for belts and backpacks. The foreward anchor for the perimeter line can simply be the hole in the bow but cris-cross it before looping it through, ie. line on right side goes through hole on left then comes back to left side of the deck. That can give a place to fold a toggle underneath so it doesn't rattle when loose. Anchoring all that hardware into the sheerclamp looks easy but one can also set it 3/4" inboard use machine screws and locknuts and eliminate the opportunity for the #10 screws to break through the sheerclamp or strip. Whenever water finds its way into the sheerclamp you'll see it eventually, I've found it's just easier to drill and seal 4mm ply then to set the drill at a certain depth, seal, deal with the different angles the screw can take depending on whether the screw is near the coaming deck beam or where the deck is flatter.