: I want to build a plywood chine kayak/covered canoe. I am not sure of the
: best way to proceed since the design that I want isn't readily available.
: Should I build the boat full scale out of cardboard sheet working out the
: design and then use the cardboard as templets for my plywood or should I
: pursue the lofting/design drawing route? The techniques employed in the
: technical drawing route are not familiar to me but I am confident that the
: full scale model route will work for me. Anyones input on this subject
: would be great. The boat design is for a long distance, expedition/high
: volume covered canoe/Baidarka type that will be paddled in protected
: waters and offshore. My current boat is a highly modified gruman aluminum
: 17' canoe with the gunnels pinched in at the center and a tubular aluminum
: frame work to support a full cover bow to stern. Also, what is the maximum
: length I should consider making my boat. I am 6'3 and weigh 265 lbs and
: will be carrying close to five hundred pounds of equipment and provisions
: when fully loaded. I was considering a max beam of 32" at the bilge
: and a length of 19-19.5', little to no rocker v bottom. The boat would be
: paddled both seated and in a kneeling postion. Thanks.
My goal is to design a craft that has better glide/speed than my current boat. I don't need to race but a half of a knot improvement, times ten hours of paddling adds up quickly. My current cloth cover takes on water at the gunnel snaps/overlap in small chop/waves so I really want the boat to be solid covered with hatches. How closely are beam vs waterline length related to speed? Will 1 inch make a noticeable difference or does it take more. What factors maintain a fast underwater shape when the boat is loaded? Thank you, everyone, for your input and help.