He's the one that built the home built rack with the metal clips. If you go to the archives and do a search for "monfoe rack" you should get some hits.

I built a rack for my car based on his idea. The rack is made of two 6 inch thick oak runners that are cut to the shape of the roofline of the car right above the doors, where the roof is solid. I put weatherstripping on the bottom edge of the oak runners to protect the car and improve this difficult fit. Galvanized pipes act as cross bars and go through holes I drilled in the oak runners. Leave enough room above the holes to give the oak some strength. I left an inch or two. I put caps on the ends of the pipe. I drilled down through the tops of the oak runners and into the pipes and put a screw in there to keep the pipes from sliding back and forth. Then I got a strip of 1/8 inch thick steel from the hardware store and bent it in my vise to make the shape needed for the door frames. To get the shape right, I first took a short length of wire and bent it to the shape I needed to hook in the door frame and reach up to the oak runners. Then I duplicated this shape in my shop with the vise and hammer. A couple of bolts attach the metal staps at 45% angle to the oak runners. Once I use a socket wrench to tighten the whole thing down, it is stronger than any factory or aftermarket rack I have seen. I can strap my kayak to the rack, get at one end of the kayak, and get the whole car rocking without the rack budging. I use it for hauling sheets of plywood (on surface streets) from the hardware store on my car's roof. It's a great rack. Less than $40 in materials. PArt of the reason the rack is so strong is that I gave it a very wide footprint. The rails are as close to the doorframe as possible, and the cross bars are very far forward and back. I have a spread between my bars that you never see on a store bought rack. Much longer and more secure.

Check the archives for John's posts. I think the picture links are dead, but he has explanations too.

Hope this helps.
-Dan