: Can you reliable convert lofting dimensions for a stitch and glue kayak (or
: canoe) to a SOF boat? I was thinking of using something similar to Putz'
: forms but am curious if the S&G dimensions would translate well to a hard
: chined SOF. If I use more chines, would that increase my chances of
: success?

There are a few ways you can convert from one method of building to another -- but some are more inolved than others, and in some cases you have to practically build the boat first. Or, you can build a model. Or, you can use a computer program to draw the boat based on the specifications you have.

So, which do you have: plans for a stitch and glue design, or plans for a kayak frame (which would be covered)?

What boat(s) do you want to build?

And which way do you want to build your boat?

You mention the building forms used by George Putz. If you are planning to input the shape of that boat into some drawing program for converting it into panels for stitch and glue, then you might want to check a web page I've posted which translates Putz's description of sizes and shapes into simple coordinates which you can easily graph. For his 17 foot walrus, look at:

http://www.geocities.com/eureka/business/7882/walrus17.htm

and for the 18.5 foot walrus check:

http://www.geocities.com/eureka/business/7882/walrus18.htm

You'll be able to set the sidewall height where you wish, based on the rest of the information in Putz's book.

The number of chines you have does not influence your success at all. In fact, more chines may just make the process less clear.

: Another note, which wood seems to bend the best for SOF kayaks? Can I use
: regular wood glue to scarf my joints or should I only use some sort of
: epoxy?

How much do you need to bend the wood? Are you talking about making a boat that uses many bent ribs? or are you looking at a plan which uses a few frames? The bending of the chines as they go around either ribs or frames is fairly gentle, and these pieces are thin, so almost any variety of wood will accept the easy bends.

Assume that all joints will get wet, or at least be in high humidity conditions for long periods of time. There are several waterproof glues, which would be suitable for your scarf joints. Since most fo the builders on this board end up covering at least one boat with fiberglass and epoxy resin they have the epoxy on hand, and tend to use that rather than buy some other glue.

If you are reading Putz's book he mentions buying the small tubes of fast setting epoxy glue (5 minute epoxy) for the few scarf joints needed. You can get this at most stationery stores as well as hardware stores, for a few dollars. This is much less than buying the smallest sized can of DAP's resorcinol glue, which is another very strong and waterproof adhesive.

Hope this helps.

PGJ