: It's an interestign system, but I see a few potential problems with it.

: - It adds a lot of complexity, which adds potential failure points.

: - It adds leak points. The more tension you have on a bungee, the narrower it
: gets. It may seal the hole in the bulkhead well when it's loose, but it
: won't when it's tight.

: - You're going to have long sections of bungee in the cockpit. While they may
: stay nicely behind the seat most of the time, I can see where they could
: become a problem in a re-entry after a capsize. They'll probably be
: hanging out and getting in the way of re-attaching the spray skirt.

: - But the number one issue I have with his setup is that it relies on a
: cordlock to hold the bungees tight. There is no way I would ever trust my
: safety to a cordlock. They simply aren't strong enough.

brian,
i have an opposite view to half of this.
the points abt the cordlock and use of bungee is right on. the hatch cover needs to be very firmly held in place (and is my no 1 issue w/ all hiddens- magnets and internals bungee) and bungees allow slop and cordlocks will slip. so no good.

but to me this is a simple approach. and it is as strong as you can make it. basically uses 2(could use one - a loop but not redundant) lines but gets 2 or 4(or as many as you want) tension points. it just uses line, and it is not exposed to the elements and is easily fixed(on shore)

bulkheads need to be vented anyway, so a hole with a cord taking up most of the space is just like a breather and having 2 is no big deal. the leak points would be insignificant or fairly easily closed up(1"rubber patch w/ tiny hole for line-easy to pull either way). (but probably overkill.)

the line entanglement issue is a function of where they go. a simple idea is (no stretch lines) pull forward to cheekplate on ea side of seat and fix to cheekplate or behind just like the seatband that is already there(carabiner, or snap or snaplock maybe or even a strong buckle. if want to be totally minimal, connect to seatband strap at the cheekplate area and use the back of the seatband attach to the coaming as the whole hatch/band release fixture. for the front hatch, 2 lines w/ tiny loops(non grabbers) in front of the kneetube as far in the yak as is reasonable to reach.

i have problems w/ pete's approach as it puts compression on the midline of the yak right where it is weak at the hatch opening as well as making it difficult to load up. i like the 2 side approach as it is out of the way, could be way more than that shown, redundant and doesn't tend to compress the yak.

another idea is to use the same tensioning system but use hooks like in ross's hatches. the tension lines would only have to release a short distance before you could unclip them.

anyway i think this approach is hidden, simple, easy, and potentially very strong without compromising yak strength, as well as easily fixed. and is one of the ways i have long thought i'd use. i see the downside is if the lines get tangled up inside and unreleasable from i/s the cockpit, but this can be planned for in several ways(access cover or cut-slots).
-mick