: Looks good. Remember not to add too much as it makes a bigger difference than
: most people would think. Yours looks about right if you're building a
: guillemot. That is a guillemot isn't it?

: My kayak turned easier than a guillemot (every paddle stroke would make it
: turn and it took total concentration to keep it going straight). While I
: added about 2" at the most extreme location, it was never lower than
: the bottom of the kayak (I wanted to be able to sit in the kayak on the
: grass and not be sitting on the fin). The fin made it track a lot better.

Good Morning Dale,

Thanks for chimmin' in. Yes, it is the Guillemot "L", which is a scaled up version of the single.

I think you hit the nail dead on the head in your earlier post when you talked about the strips pulling away from the forms a little when building the Guillemot and how it produced a more rounded stern rather than sharper and slightly concaved. I had the same thing happen as this is an area on the boat that has a tight compound curve. And from what I've read here on the BB, I think others may have had the same thing happen. If I build another stripper, I think I'll use cheater strips on the bow and stern to alleviate some of the stress, both on me and on the strips!

I had the same thing happen while stripping the "L" but I caught it and managed to get the strips pulled back down tight. So, the added fin may not be necessary on the L. But, I'm used to paddling a Necky Zoar Sport - 25"x14'(which tracks very well on our local waters without a lot of wind) and I figured I'd add it now and remove it later if its too tight.

Here's a pic of the hull on the Necky. I think you can see from the pic that the center of the hull is slightly concaved. It paddles well and has a shallow draft, even with my 255 pounds in it! But, I do have to work a little harder to keep up with my wife in her Guillemot.

Happy Building and thanks for the pic and info concerning the fin .

Charles.