: My technique is to work on small areas at a time and scraping off any excess
: before moving on to the next. Perhaps I needed to let the epoxy sit a
: little longer on the glass to get the grid to before using the squegee. It
: sounds like it was the long cure time alowing the glass to continue
: absorbing epoxy that saved you not just the use of the squegee.

That's the biggest advantage to the slow hardener for me. I can slop the stuff on, covering the whole hull. Then I go back and skim it with the squeegee trying to remove excess and catch any runs. I do that skimming part several times, i.e. many passes, until I'm happy with things. Glassing that hull was probably the better part of an hour and a half. I agree 100% that the long cure was very important. Any way you cut it, there's little doubt this cloth can be touchy. And to be perfectly honest, I'm not sure I'd go with it again.

I'm curious: What metering method(s) do you use to measure epoxy? I still use the pumps which do burp at times. When they do, I try to adjust the mix accordingly, i.e. by the seat of my pants. I know I'm going to get in trouble with that some day, but have never had a batch fail on me. I was just thinking that maybe a slight mis-mix on my part changed the saturation properties of the epoxy here.

: As I have said in the past, this glass did exactly what I wanted it to do. I
: don't consider it in any way lacking for internal surfaces. For that
: perfectly clear finish on a deck I wouldn't risk getting the grid lines.

Yeah, I'm living dangerously here :-) I figure with the deck, the area is smaller and I know what to expect, so I can baby it more, especially on the accents where the fabric would show more. Besides, if it doesn't come out ok, I can always just paint it black or something ... :-)

Beth: I'm kidding. Really! (ducks and runs for cover) .....